Monday, November 19, 2012

One Pattern, Many Looks

My local ASG neighborhood group, which is fashion focused, had a challenge this fall. It was called  “One Pattern, Many Looks” .  Everyone was supposed to bring at least two completed items from the same pattern – one made just like one of the pattern views and a second (or more) with a change – embellishment, change the sleeve, collar, etc.  Seeing recent pictures of Chanel jackets and dresses trimmed in sequins like the one below reminded me of a similarly trimmed Burda jacket from 2010.


Burda 11-2010-104

When I realized I had a UFO  from the same pattern,  the Tibi Jacket blogged about previously , I decided to finish it. Then I could make another jacket like the one in the picture above  and have my two garments for the challenge.  My second version of the pattern looks very much like the Burda Style magazine jacket.  The Burda jacket is made of boucle tweed and is trimmed with what is described as beaded tulle and three rows of zipper tape.
I auditioned several different trim combinations. I found a  poly netting fabric with sequins  at Hancock Fabrics.  What I liked about it was that the sequins were dull.  More texture and movement than glitter and glam.  As an alternative I also found some sheer black ribbon with embroidery and small sequins at Walmart.

chain and crochet sequin trim

Walmart ribbon and silver chain trim

Sequin fabric and silver chain trim
sequin band with ball chain trim

The pattern directions have you cut bands of the tulle and shape it around the neckline by gathering the neck edge. That was doable with the ribbon, but I wasn’t so sure with the sequined fabric. I decided to go with the sequin trim to emulate the  Chanel jacket.  But  I cut the sequin fabric in the shape of the front and back neck edge. like a facing.

cutting the sequin trim

 I trimmed the sequins from the seam allowances by cutting them across the middle through the hole, without cutting the thread that held them on to the backing fabric.  I did this with a pair of throwaway scissors from the dollar store so as not to ruin my good sewing scissors.  The last time I had to mess with sequins was when I made four bridesmaid dresses for sis’s first wedding.  Those dresses consisted of a sheer over blouse of embroidered beaded and sequined fabric worn over a slip dress of a matching color.  They were very pretty, but a lot of work.

band with sequins removed from seam allowance

I liked the look of the zipper tape trim shown in the picture.  It is made by overlapping the tapes of three black zippers, two with bronze teeth and one with silver teeth.  But zipper tape is heavy and stiff.  Again the thought of the weight and shaping around the curved neck was daunting.  Back when zipper trim was first becoming popular, I searched for it on Etsy and this trim came up.

ball chain trim
 It has a similar look but is made with 22.4 mm ball chain attached to a bias strip.  It is easy to shape around curves and has a similar look to zipper trim.  I decided to make my own.  I bought several colors of the ball chain and used  my cording  foot to zig zag it on  bias cut strips of  brown wool flannel .

making ball chain trim

 My sample looked very nice. Unfortunately I was running out of time before the Challenge show and tell date, so instead  I used some purchased trim that had silver chain zigzagged to brown woven strips. 

The sequin bands and chain trim make the jacket a  bit heavy in the front so I added a chain weight to the inside  back to make it hang evenly from my shoulders.   I  sewed the trim to the jacket edge and pockets by hand.  I did it the week my MIL was in hospice care.  It was good to have something to occupy my hands during that time.  I am totally sold on the value of hospice care, which I was not before.  It is end of life care  by health professionals and volunteers who provide medical, psychological and spiritual support. Their goal is to help people who are dying have peace, comfort and dignity. They can control pain and other symptoms with powerful medication not permitted in other situations, and can remove the uncomfortable hospital monitoring devices so the patient is as comfortable as possible. Hospice programs also provide services to support a patient's family.  Their explanations of what would happen really helped us accept and deal with the situation.  My MIL has passed and is in a better place now, but I know I will always think of her when I wear this jacket. She was the best MIL a girl could ask for.


  1. A beautiful jacket Audrey and lovely comments about your MIL... my condolences.

  2. You did a wonderful job on the trim. A really beautiful jacket!
    I agree with you about hospice care, my dad spent his last months in one and my family and I were very grateful for the care he received there.
    So sorry for your loss.

  3. Audrey that is a beautiful jacket. Sincere condolences on MIL passing.

  4. Audrey, I'm sorry to hear of the passing of your MIL but I'm glad that she was allowed to pass with dignity and in peace.

    Both of your jackets are stunning and like I was telling someone last week, your sewing truly inspires me to want to do better. These jackets are just two more reasons why I want to sew like you when I grow up!

  5. Your jacket looks stunning, the sequin trim really finishes it off and I love the idea of getting some cheap scissors for the sequins, very clever!

  6. Audrey, Sorry to hear the passing of you MIL. Hospice care workers are wonderful and it is a good place to spend your last days in a peaceful environment because it also is comforting to the family.

    As for the jacket, is nicely structured and a wonderful design.

  7. I admire your style so much. Absolutely stunning, inspiration coat!

  8. Please accept my condolences too - your jackets a lovely

  9. Beautiful jacket, and glad you MIL got good care during her last days.

  10. This is a stunning jacket, handling all that sequinned trim certainly looks like a lot of work, but the end result is well worth it.
    Sorry to hear about your mother in law, but it sounds like she received great care and company before her passing.

  11. I am so sorry to hear of your loss. The jacket is lovely and is a beautiful reminder.

  12. Love the fun trims on your jacket. I've found that choosing and applying trim can be a really difficult decision. Your choices are just perfect.

    The people that work at Hospice are angels.

  13. I'm sorry to hear about your MIL.
    The jacket is lovely! I agree, it is very much like the Chanel jackets we have been seeing.

  14. Very beautiful jacket! And a great idea how to make your own ball chain trim.

    I'm so sorry for your loss, it sounds like she was a wonderful woman.

  15. Audrey your jacket is beautiful and I love the trim. Sorry to learn of the passing of your MIL. I think that hospice is such a perfect way for the whole family deal with the passing of a loved one. Thoughts and prayers for you and your family.

  16. Your jacket is wonderful and a loving tribute to your MIL. I am so sorry for your loss. I am glad she had the gift of peace and comfort in her final days.

  17. Condolences on the passing of your mother in law. I too am lucky with mine, and it such a blessing.

    Your jacket is a lovely tribute, beautifully and imaginatively crafted - I hope you get to wear it and celebrate life and those gone before.

  18. Audrey, so sorry for your loss but glad you have great memories of your MIL. Your jacket is spectacular and I admire it so much. But whoo-hoo, is your Walmart trim department a lot better than mine!

  19. I'm so sorry for the loss of your mother-in-law. I'm glad to hear of the value of hospice care. End of life is not something we like to think about.

    The jacket is gorgeous. I love that matte sequin trim. It is a much more sophisticated version of glam!

  20. Oh Audrey! Brilliant trim idea! Your finished jacket is a beautiful interpretation! I know that this post features the trim details, but I wonder if you did the traditional Chanel lining or a bagged lining?

  21. Yay! I've always wanted that Burda jacket, too, and this is wonderful! Love!

  22. Went through a similar experience this last spring and I can only say, bravo to the Odyssey Hospice Staff in Detroit, Michigan for their familial and patient care. It can make such a difference to all concerned to be near professionals with discretion, skills and experience.
    Congrats on a great jacket, too!

  23. Your jacket is spectacular and somewhat a labor of love. I think hospice is one of the greatest movements in the medical field. it is truly a mission of care and compassion at a frightening time for patients and families. Condolences on your mother in law's passing. Sounds like you had a special relationship with her.