|Esquire Girl Calendar Feb 1947|
Surprisingly, I have been motivated to finish some UFO’s (unfinished objects). Late last summer I decided to make a copy of this Tibi Jacket. I got as far as cutting out the bodice fabric before I lost interest.
I think resuming a project takes more effort than starting a new one. First I have to remember why it got set aside. It was usually because of an issue or problem. So I need to solve that problem to move on. It actually helps me get started by writing everything that needs to be done as tasks or steps. Seeing them as individual tasks makes them much more achievable. And if I start with easy ones first, the momentum to tackle the hard one is usually there, For this jacket project step 1 was draft a pocket pattern. Easy peasy. A square with bottom corners rounded. That was done quickly and it was easy to move on to the next step. Step 2. Modify the sleeve pattern to add pleat and shorten length. This took me a whole afternoon. And lastly, Step 3. Figure out how to apply the leather binding and zipper to center front. As this was the last thing I had to do before the jacket was complete, the motivation to work through it was there.
The pattern I used for the starting point was jacket pattern 104 from Burda Style magazine from Burda Nov 2010.
The Tibi jacket had shoulder princess seams in the front, and chest pockets with flaps. Leather is used for the binding at the neck, center front, sleeve edges, hem and shoulder yokes. The ¾ length sleeves have a large pleat at the shoulder. The back is gathered below a yoke. Obviously some changes had to be made to the original pattern to get where I wanted to go.
• Bodice - trimmed off seam allowances on center front and neckline. Leather strips were used to bind and finish edges.
• Self drafted pocket and pocket flaps patterns.
• Self drafted pattern for leather shoulder yoke
• Shorten sleeves to ¾ length, tapered to 11” circumference at bottom edge like other jackets with similar sleeves
• Add large pleat to sleeve cap. I used instructions from Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear
Leather binding is a favorite way of finishing an edge and adding a bit of contrast. I have used it many times over the years. The leather binding is made from strips of lambskin. The stretchiness and thickness of lambskin reminds me of a medium weight double knit. Nothing to be afraid of if you have never sewn it before. Leather has no true grain, so binding stripes can be cut in any direction on the leather skin. I use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut accurately.
For my 3/8” wide trim, the width of the strip was 1 5/8 “ I suggest determining the width of your binding strips by sewing some samples using scraps. Leather takes more width to wrap around an edge than fabric, because of it's thickness. To get the longer strips needed for the center front edges and neck opening, I pieced short lengths of the leather using diagonal seams to make longer pieces. I also used the diagonal seams to make the binding bands for the bottoms of the sleeves.
|Binding bands for bottom of sleeves|
|Finished sleeve edge|
|Closeup mitered corners|
I made the princess seamed back of the Burda pattern rather than copying the Tibi back. The backs of my jackets on a dress form will always look loose and a bit bumpy because my back has way more curves than the dress form back.
Most of my summer clothes and shoes are packed away, so when it came time to take some pictures of the jacket on me, I just grabbed some compatible garments that were within easy reach, and opted for the barefoot look. Probably not the way I would wear the jacket to work, but fun for a backyard photo session with Miss Ashley.
|The prerequisite Twirl picture|