Tuesday, April 23, 2024

Independant Pattern Makes

Independant pattern companies are everywhere, in addition to the well-known sites on the internet, I like to browse at the clothing patterns offered by the shops on Etsy. There are hundreds.  Many are same old, same old...how many ways can you draft a basic T shirt? but you can find some unique ones, and if you are willing to take a chance on the quality of the pattern drafting, instructions, etc., it can be a fun adventure.  Here are my recent makes.

1.  1920's Irish Flat cap from Etsy shop   ElseWhenMillinery  I made it as an example of using "underlining" to strengthen delicate fabrics for a presentation to a local ASG group on Linings and Underlinings .  It is made from silk jacquard tie scraps, which wiggle and ravel, until they are underlined with cotton flannel. Then they behave beautifully.  The pattern was well drafted, and the written instruction were detailed and clear. I especially like that this pattern came in different head sizes.  

2, Tallinn Blouse from Etsy Shop  Fabrico Patterns

Cotton Sateen fabric from Fabric Mart Fabrics

Tallinn Blouse

I chose the pattern because I wanted to sew a blouse without a front placket. I wasn't in the mood for buttons and buttonholes.  The pattern was well drafted.  The written instructions had lots of pictures. The blouse has a very low, open neck.  Okay for me, but something to consider for yourself. I had to make some adjustments to the shoulder area to keep it from pulling to the back as shown in the site picture above. It still does a bit.

3. Turtleneck Jumper Diana from Etsy store This Is Katchi

I was intrigued by the swirly, pieced design and up for the challenge.  I had no coordinating fabrics suitable for this top. My solution was to overdye a yard of some green rib knit with blue dye to create a slightly darker, coordinating color to the original fabric. I used the dyed fabric as the contrast in this design.  I did not use the actual turtleneck pattern. It appeared to be drafted oddly, based on my experience and figure shape.  The triangular shaped sleeve heads and short blocky torso pieces did not bode well for a garment that would fit my body. Perhaps the recommended 50% stretch fabric was supposed to cover all the wearer's bumps and lumps.

 Instead, I used BurdaStyle  turtleneck Style 121 from Sept 2010 issue and used the swirl design from the Diana pattern.  

 There are written instructions, and a YouTube video for this pattern.  The 2nd half of the video explains how to create the swirly design on the basic pattern and how to sew it together. Sewing was a challenge, as my table buddy, at the sewing retreat where I made this, can attest. But I am happy with the results.

Diana Swirl Turtleneck

4. (not from Etsy) Fitzroy Blouse from Liesl Gibson at Oliver and S. It has a subtly raised shawl collar creating a flattering high V neckline. I chose to make the softly pleated tucks on the sleeve for View A.  Fabric is a "vintage" (looked like deadstock from the 90's) wool crepe print of blue morning glories on a purple background from Gala Fabrics in Canada. This particular fabric is no longer available. Liesl patterns and instructions are always great. 

Fitzroy Blouse