Saturday, September 29, 2018

Via Del Perle Inspired Top

This Via Del Perle  “Lace Insert Blouse”  has been in my inspiration file for a year or so.

  I liked the combination of the utilitarian sweatshirt fabric with lace and silk chiffon.  You can click photo to view them slightly  larger.

When I want to copy a garment, I like to study the pictures and jot down notes on the style details.  I note the  proportions of a seam length or style feature in the photo in relation to the model's body.  And then  extrapolate them to actual measurements on my body. Example: the top ends at high hip. On me that is a center front measurement of 18 inches. The shoulder seam extends beyond the shoulder about the same width that it sits on shoulder, so for me the shoulder seams would be 9.5 inches or twice my shoulder width. Though I did a rough sketch  of a flat pattern with these measurements superimposed on my sloper,  I am  not confident of my  hand drafting skills, and also a  bit lazy. ( couldn't be bothered to look for my Garment Designer software dongle)

But in my beloved collection of  old BurdaStyle magazines,  in the July 2012 issue, I found blouse pattern 114   puffed-sleeve-blouse-072012 , that had the blocky shape, jewel neckline, extended shoulders and gathered sleeves similar to the inspiration top.

It was so easy to trace the pattern, square off the  bottom hem on bodice and sleeve pieces to the appropriate length, add a center front seam and extra width at center back for the  pleat.  And done!


It took a while to  accumulate all the fabric and notions. I purchased  the lace from an Etsy vendor in China. I have ordered both fabric and notions from China before. In my opinion the  cost and quality of  matches what I can buy in the US.
Hmm no wonder…*warning a little topic detour here. Did you know JoAnn fabrics sources 66% of what they sell from China. Because of that they are a bit  concerned about the recent import tariff on China produced fleece yarns and fabric. JOANN-Fabric and Tariffs     "The U.S. lacks suppliers capable of providing the quantity and quality of the products Jo-Ann buys from China"  says a JoAnn spokeswoman.  Guess I should just buy directly from China too, especially since shipping is  really cheap ($3-4 range) compared to US mail order shipping. Why? Because it is subsidized.  postal subsidies for chinese ecom merchants

Anyway the lace had similar flower and leaf shapes to the inspiration lace, and the shapes were in both right and left orientations which were needed for the mirror image layout on the front.

The ribbing came from a US Etsy vendor.  A thrifted XXXL,  medium gray sweatshirt was used for the front fabric.  The separating zipper was purchased on a recent road trip to Fabric Place Basement ( the new Alexandria, VA location). I thought about buying silk chiffon for the sleeves and back, but forced myself to “shop my stash” and used a silk cotton blend I found there.  It is a bit more opaque then the chiffon and better suits my comfort level for a top.

I cut the motifs from the lace and arranged them on the front to my liking. I temporarily glued them to the fabric using tacky non-permanent glue.  Using a long zigzag stitch, I stitched around the edges of the motifs to permanently attach them.

Lace Layout

The last steps were to cut the jump stitches between the lace motifs, dab the cut areas with fray check  and  cut out some of the grey background fabric (in areas above and below the bust) just like on the inspiration top.