Saturday, February 27, 2021

Vogue 1768 - Tilton Top

 Vogue 1768 pattern, by designer Marcy Tilton, is described as a Misses semi-fitted, pullover peplum top with asymmetrical seaming, and raised notch collar.  

You must be "on your game" when making this top.  There are asymmetrical pieces to  cut and sew together, mitered corners and a lot of topstitching.     I loved the front, but when I  looked at the back line drawing, I thought I was looking at the line drawing for a different pattern. For example, like McCalls 7513.

McCalls 7513

While the front had asymmetrical seaming, and irregular shaped flared peplum pieces attached to the bottom with curved seaming, the back had shoulder seam princess seams and a straight seamed lower section with pleats.   I have always liked the Tilton sisters' designs for their unique style lines.  To the best of my recollections, their garments always included repeats or references to the garment front design lines in the garment back.  I confirmed this by going out to Etsy, doing a search on Tilton patterns, and comparing the front and black line drawing of many of their patterns. I am not sure what happened on this design. 

 I may be a bit sensitive to the consistent princess seam thing, associating it with  "inexperienced designer" because of a personal experience.  Long ago I took a pattern design class at G Street Fabrics  where I  drafted the pattern for an Armani jacket.  I had a picture of the jacket front which had armhole princess seams. But no picture of the back. So I blithely put shoulder princess seams in the back.  The instructor suggested  I use armhole princess seams in the back to repeat those in the front.  

So I  redesigned the back for this top.  I made the original back of a muslin fabric and basted it to the front to make sure I liked the fit. Then I took the back muslin and drew my new style lines on it.  I cut along those style lines and added seam allowances.  I added the armhole princess seams. I added  two overlapping peplum pieces attached with a curved seam. I added a bit of flare to the  peplum pieces to replicate the function of the pleats in the original design.  The fabric used was a light weight ponte knit of  an unknown blend from the stash.

Front with original back muslin

New Back 

 I like my back so much better. It satisfies my need for repetition and consistency.

Restyled Back

Vogue 1768

Friday, February 5, 2021

 Another  sweat suit  make using two more  Grasser Patterns  combined with some luscious organic tencel cotton stretch fleece (.76 tencel lyocell, .28 organic cotton .06 spandex)  from Ewe Fine Fiber Goods , a small/yarn fabric store in Charlottesville, VA.

The top is  Grasser No. 528. I liked the raised neck line, so cozy,  and the asymmetrical vertical pleats.  In reality the pleats don't stay neat and vertical. 

The pants are  Grasser No. 725. They are meant to be made out of a firmer knit like ponte or wool double knit. The drape and softness of my fabric affected the look of my pants. I took in all seams significantly to get a neater appearance and closer fit. The  instruction included two  construction techniques I had never seen before, 1. Using grosgrain ribbon in the hem allowance of knit pant to maintain the shape of the leg hems. 2. And for the waistband, using two layers of elastic to provide a firm but stretchy waistband and a crisp turned edge to the pant top.

The set is very soft and comfortable.  However it reminds me of pajamas and I don't ever wear pajamas during the day unless I am sick,  recovering from surgery, etc. This sewing project confirmed what I have always suspected, which is that I feel more attractive  and therefore more comfortable, in garments with a bit more shape and structure.    I love the neckline of the top  and hope to use it in another garment.

Grasser top 528 and pant 725