Saturday, February 27, 2021

Vogue 1768 - Tilton Top

 Vogue 1768 pattern, by designer Marcy Tilton, is described as a Misses semi-fitted, pullover peplum top with asymmetrical seaming, and raised notch collar.  


You must be "on your game" when making this top.  There are asymmetrical pieces to  cut and sew together, mitered corners and a lot of topstitching.     I loved the front, but when I  looked at the back line drawing, I thought I was looking at the line drawing for a different pattern. For example, like McCalls 7513.



McCalls 7513

While the front had asymmetrical seaming, and irregular shaped flared peplum pieces attached to the bottom with curved seaming, the back had shoulder seam princess seams and a straight seamed lower section with pleats.   I have always liked the Tilton sisters' designs for their unique style lines.  To the best of my recollections, their garments always included repeats or references to the garment front design lines in the garment back.  I confirmed this by going out to Etsy, doing a search on Tilton patterns, and comparing the front and black line drawing of many of their patterns. I am not sure what happened on this design. 

 I may be a bit sensitive to the consistent princess seam thing, associating it with  "inexperienced designer" because of a personal experience.  Long ago I took a pattern design class at G Street Fabrics  where I  drafted the pattern for an Armani jacket.  I had a picture of the jacket front which had armhole princess seams. But no picture of the back. So I blithely put shoulder princess seams in the back.  The instructor suggested  I use armhole princess seams in the back to repeat those in the front.  

So I  redesigned the back for this top.  I made the original back of a muslin fabric and basted it to the front to make sure I liked the fit. Then I took the back muslin and drew my new style lines on it.  I cut along those style lines and added seam allowances.  I added the armhole princess seams. I added  two overlapping peplum pieces attached with a curved seam. I added a bit of flare to the  peplum pieces to replicate the function of the pleats in the original design.  The fabric used was a light weight ponte knit of  an unknown blend from the stash.

Front with original back muslin


New Back 

 I like my back so much better. It satisfies my need for repetition and consistency.


Restyled Back


Vogue 1768



14 comments:

  1. I like your back design better, too! Nice work!

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  2. What a dressy, classy top; it looks great on you. I would never have thought to change the back but your changes make perfect sense and are a big improvement, IMO.

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  3. Isn't that one of the benefits of being able to sew, to do it our own way. Love this top and the color is perfect for you!

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  4. It looks terrific on you and I like your design for the back so much better. I have to agree with your conclusions. A pet peeve of mine is with cocktail dress patterns that have a lovely drapey front and a plain pencil skirt zip-up back.

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  5. Wow, it’s lovely. You definitely improved on the pattern.

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  6. You are absolutely correct. Your top is perfect. The back is so much better with your redesign. It suits you beautifully...colour, shape, the whole shebang.

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  7. I love the redrafted back! My first thought was after the front was designed, a decision was made to just slap a back pattern already used in another pattern to this one. This is a flattering top on you and a great color!

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  8. lovely and great color. plus an improvement on the design.

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  9. El cambio ha resultado genial, es una preciosidad. BESICOS.

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  10. Love the redesign of the back! I agree that the original looks like two different patterns and your modification of the design is much more harmonious.

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  11. Excellent redesign! That color is YOUR color, you look amazing in it.

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