She's Got Legs - Part 2 Burda Pant 9 2010 108

I loved the clean, preppy look of these Boden pants that popped up in my google search for pants.

Boden is a British clothing retailer selling primarily online, mail order and catalogue. I remember getting a unsolicited Boden catalog a couple years back and being impressed by the bright, modern patterned fabrics used for classic styles of clothing.  At the time the European sizing put me off ordering. They now have a USA website.
 
This style has a contour waistband, slant pockets, and slim ankle length legs.  They are available in a wide range of colors. The web site  calls this version  the " TIPPED PANT - A fashion-forward take on the definitive tailored pant. Featuring luxurious detail around the curved cuffs and pockets, these  are just that little bit different. "   I particularly liked the two color trim on the shaped hems of the legs and the pockets opening. 

 

 My best fitting pant pattern, the Eureka Pants that Fit, have tapered, not slim legs. I found a Burda pattern with the style of leg I wanted,  Burda 9 2010 108, and combined the two patterns,  using the Eureka pant pattern above the crotch level and the shape of the Burda pants below the crotch. 

 

The pattern is downloadable from this link.  Burda pants-09/2010 108

The fabric  I used is “Dress Denim” from JoAnn Fabrics, a blend of poly rayon and lycra navy with a dark microdot weave.
 
The trim is ¼ inch  red and white stripes of bias binding applied to the pocket opening and the shaped hem.

To replicate the trim I used purchased bias binding.   1 package white bias tape extra wide double fold and 1 package red double fold bias tape quilt binding.  It was super easy to apply and looks just like the inspiration trim. 

First step was to cut the white binding in half along the middle fold line. One side will be ½ inch wide, the other will be slightly wider than ½ inch. It is folded this way to facilitate the application method using the package instructions.  I did not use this method.

 

 

First step was to cut the white binding in half along the middle fold line.

 

 

Lay ½ in  width  binding with cut edge along cut edge of fabric.

 Top stitch  close to folded edge with white thread. 

 Lay one folded edge of red bias binding ¼ “ from topstitched edge of white binding. 

 Top stitch close to folded edge with red thread.  

 

 

 

 

 Wrap excess red binding around the cut edge to the  back side of fabric and hand sew in place, using white top stitching line as a guide.

 

 
Shaped Hems
 
I hemmed my pants  and applied the binding to the hemmed edge. I could have eliminated the hem and applied the binding to a cut edge of the bottom of the pants . I kept the hem because I wanted some firmness and weight at the bottom of the leg. The last 3 inches of the outside leg  seam  was left unsewn. After hemming I made a curved template that I used to cut the curved shape at the bottom of the  side seam.   I applied the white and red binding to the hem edge curving around the corners and along the side seams. Where the raw ends of the bias meet the side seam I  treated the bias  like welting on a pocket opening. 

 

Y cut at end of seam  before trim is secured

Hem trim

 

 



Pocket trim

 

 

 

Sewing friends have commented that I have a nice pair of pants whose colors are appropriate for wearing on  patriotic occasions; Memorial Day, 4th of July, and  Military Appreciation Fridays at work.

 

She's Got Legs - Part 1 Burda Pant 10-2011 127

Sometimes I use the contests on sewing sites and blogs to motivate my sewing.  More often than not I do the research and planning, purchasing, and finish a project, but rarely enter the contest.      My enjoyment comes from the process and the finished product.

This time it was the Pants Contest on Pattern Review.  I have lots of black, navy,  and gray work pants and the usual selection of jeans, straight leg, skinny, flared etc. So what kind of pant to make?  I love to do google searches where I put in a descriptive term, the word “pant” and look at the images.  You never know what will pop up. I sewed two pairs of pants

The first one was a flare leg pant. Picture source: Illustrated Fashion Alphabet Check out this site for great fashion info and history.

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I have to alter the back of every commercial pant pattern  I sew and it gets old. About a year ago I attended a pant fitting workshop with Rae Cumbie .  We sewed and fit muslin of her Eureka Pants that Fit pattern.

 I left the workshop that day with a great fitting trouser with a slightly tapered leg. I have sewn several pairs of them for work.   But I wanted some other style pants with the same great fit.  Yes, in theory I could have drafted flare leg on the Eureka, but after  reading several  different methods in my drafting library and being totally overwhelmed,  I  decided to try superimposing the Eureka  pant pattern over a Burda  pant  pattern that had the leg shape I wanted.  And that was this pattern.

 
"These mid rise boot cut trousers are ultra-flattering. They lengthen the leg with a slight flare. The back is left smooth but the front has decorative patch pockets for a finished look." The pattern is available for download at this link.       Burda Pant 10/2011 #127

  The first thing I did was establish the center line on the front and back pattern pieces, of both the Eureka pants and the Burda pants. I assumed both patterns had been drafted using standard pants drafting techniques, which puts the middle of the front halfway between the side and the crotch point.    And midway between the inseams and out seams from hem to knee on both front and back. Continue the  fold to waistline. This establishes the center on each piece, which should be parallel to the grain line. Note: grain line is often marked on the pattern, but is not necessarily in the center.

   I lined up the crotch line of both front patterns. This will work on pants styles where the crotch is worn/drafted at a normal level.   It would not necessarily work for culottes and wide leg pants which often have dropped crotches.   My front Eureka pattern matched the Burda pattern pretty closely, front crotch curve,  side seam and waist seam. That made me feel more comfortable about using this superimpose method   The back pattern piece is where all the differences were.

My bottom is low and flat so I do not need all the fabric, waistline darts, and the center back dart (back wedge)  needed for a higher, curvier bottom.  I used the Eureka pattern shape above the crotch line on the back. And the Burda leg shape below the crotch line.  Below is the Eureka pattern (pale yellow and outlined in green on top of the Burda flare pattern (white).

 

 

The fabric was purchased from Marcy Tilton a couple of years ago and supposedly it was used by a French company for pants.  The fabric has a tiny bit of stretch. It was sold by the panel and  expensive.  The border print ran along one end of the panel. There were some white (unprinted) spots in the print and the fabric was actually in my give away pile when I thought.."what have I got to lose…"  I did have to so some descrete piecing in the back crotch.

These pants have an interesting patch pocket with a welted opening.   I had the welt lines marked on the front pants pattern pieces when I decided to read the directions and discovered the welts were made in the patch pocket pieces.  Hmm nice design.  If you mess up the welts, the pants are not a loss.

1. Make welts in the patch pocket shape



welts basted in place

Welts sewn and basted shut with zigzag stitch

2.Sew lining to patch pocket shape on three sides.

lining sewn to patch pocket

3.In lining, cut slit under welts and hand sew  to  welt seam

Sew patch pocket to pant front. I used an edge stitch foot.

 

 

 

 A fun pair of pants with a retro flare!

Spring Break for Seniors

 Normally this time of year we are returning from a  family spring break trip to some island in the Caribbean, often named after a saint.  This year son #1 is living and working in South America.  Son #2 is busy balancing  college, a job and a girl friend. I wasn’t inclined to go anywhere. But  a “use it or lose it” policy on hubby's 6 weeks of annual vacation, and emails  from Allegiant Air advertising $79 round trip fares from Richmond to FLA changed my plans.

 

  Off to the west coast of FLA we went.   Son #1 teased us about going  on spring break for seniors in  somewhere called St. Boca Raton (Rat's Mouth). Definitely a city in FLA, different coast, but not named for a saint.  The round trip  flight ended up costing about $200 per person because we wanted to take luggage, both carryon and checked, wanted to sit in seats with leg room for adults, etc.  Allegiant charges for every little thing, including water and cola in flight drinks. My coworker told me this airline got started with charters to casinos and is now one of the most profitable airlines. Hmmm. The  airline personnel were very outgoing and helpful. The flight was great and I would fly with them again.

The west coast of FLA certainly has a lot of islands and interesting state park. We started in Bradenton and drove down the coast  a little each day, stopping at  parks, museums, botanical gardens and beaches that looking interesting. We visited the island of Anna Maria because I had read an article in Southern Living Magazine about it.  We enjoyed the Ringling Circus Museum  and the Art Museum in  Sarasota. On to Fort Myers and  Pine Island,  where we hiked a lovely trail around huge shell mounds and learned about the Calusa Indians.

We visited Sanibel and  Captiva Islands, admired the beautiful homes and visited the shell museum. 
We spent a couple days in Naples, staying in a lovely hotel located a block from the scenic downtown area.  We visited a nearby state park that was the site of a settlement built by a group, known as the Koreshan Unity,  who believed that the entire universe existed within a giant, hollow sphere. They lived a life of industry and abstinence until, not surprisingly, the group petered out.

We went hiking at the Bird  Rookery Swamp Trail.

The path was the bed of an old railroad used for cypress logging. The  swampy black water came right up to the edge of the path.  About 3 miles in, we began to see lots of baby alligators and a few medium sized ones.  If they were on the banks of the swamp, they slithered back into the water as we approached.  We were on the way back to the car, trying to beat a big thunderstorm blowing in, when we came across this guy laying on the path. He showed no inclination to move, so we tiptoed quickly by.

 

 

 

 

This is as close as my husband would get for a photo op.

 My favorite park was Weeki Wachi Springs. It is the site of the deepest  freshwater spring in the US.  There has been an underwater “mermaid show” performed in the spring since the 1940’s.

Ariel view of Weeki Wachi Spring

 The audience sits in front of glass windows below the surface of the water.    The mermaid show is  bit kitschy,  but I thoroughly enjoyed it.  Long ago I took synchronized swimming lessons at the local swimming pool. I know how much effort and skill it takes to turn graceful flips in water without flailing and thrashing. I found  I was holding my breath as I watched the ‘mermaids” enact the Little Mermaid story for us.

  I was even more impressed  with their performance when I found out the water was about 75 degrees and has a 5 mile per hour current because there is 112 million gallons a day bubbling up through a 20 by 3 foot opening in the sandstone below the performers.  After I got home, I discovered via  YouTube  that they have be a mermaid training camp where ordinary people can be fitted for one of the tails and try mermaid moves in the spring. Mermaid Camp Training  I would so like to do that!

A couple days before we left for our trip,  I sewed a jumpsuit.   New Look pattern 6413. My pattern  is  marked S0264 bin 19 so I suspect I bought my pattern at a Wal-Mart.

This pattern includes dresses and jumpsuit with V-neck, front zips and two  sleeve length options. There is also a pattern for an optional belt. I made view A jumpsuit with the short sleeves. The front is closed with an invisible zipper and there is elastic at the waist.  The fabric I used is a Tie Dyed 100% rayon, crepe weave from  Jo Ann Fabrics.

It has been many years since I have sewn or worn a jumpsuit.  And at the time, I did not have a lot of fitting knowledge.  Both pants and tops sewn straight from a pattern fit well so I just assumed a jumpsuit would fit fine.  It did not, because it was too short in the torso.  This pattern is loosely fitted with an elastic waist and I needed no torso alterations.  Comparing the neckline of the bodice to my sloper showed me the neck opening was a bit wide for my narrow shoulders. I added ¾" to the inside neck at the shoulders blending in to the front V and the back neckline curve.  It is still a bit wide for my taste. I probably should have made a smaller size top blending it to the next larger size bottom. I will  look for a “statement necklace” to fill the V neck.  The jumpsuit is comfortable to wear, and easy to get on and off. I wore it out to dinner in Naples.  

New Look 6413

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not a New Look for me

I have seen the question "What is the inspiration for your next sewing project?" posted on blogs. 

It varies for me. Sometime the inspiration for my next sewing project is the piece of fabric lying on the top of the  nearest pile.  Is this the  LIFO (last in first out) inventory method? Probably not when that piece  recently came from the depths of my stash.

  Our ASG group recently did some community sewing. Duffle bags for foster children  with the local chapter of  Catholic Charities. A group of teenage boys.  So the bags had to be in boy type fabrics. I dug deep into my stash of denims and cotton twills, from the pre lycra era, and pulled out a large piece of sueded, dusty purple colored cotton.  It yielded a couple  of duffle bags, but there was still a big piece left over. On its way back to the depths of my stash it happened to take a rest stop  by a piece of  rayon gauze print. An unfamiliar fabric in non typical colors. A "Why did I order this?" Internet purchase. But they coordinated. So I decided to make a jacket out of the cotton and a top out of the gauze.  I wanted to make a short jacket to go over a longer top. Like the multi layer, cascading look of this HP pattern, which I order, printed, taped together, compared to my sloper and decided the required alterations were not worth the effort.

 I chose New Look 6633 for the jacket because it had simple neckline and princess seams for fitting.    I created facings instead of lining it to the edge and did channel stitching around the front and sleeve edges.

 

 

 

I chose New Look 6213 for the top  because it was long and had the drapey tie in the front.  I decided to make view A with the flutter, cut out shoulder sleeves because the cold shoulder fad is quite big now in RTW.


New Look 6213

New Look 6213

My final feelings on this combo.

Jacket

Stiff cotton fabrics do not make flattering jackets.
One piece sleeves is stiff cotton fabrics quickly start to look like corrugated pipes.
Donate all old cotton denims and cotton twills to charity !

New Look jacket 6633

Top

Rayon guaze is interesting fabric. light weight but stiff, easy to sew.
Dusty purple and pale pink are not my colors.
The cutout shoulder flutter sleeves

New Look 6213 view A

 

 

New Look 6213  - cold shoulder