I discovered the patterns from Oki Style
via a picture of one of the patterns on a now forgotten blog. Oki is the nickname of the designer, originally from Mongolia, now living in Germany. Oki describes her designs as experimental and alternative. See Interview here.
She has an Etsy shop and a Web site. I
recommend the Web Site It is easily translated to English using the flag
icon on the home page. It has more patterns than the Etsy
shop and some of them are available in petite, regular and tall sizes. Only
standard sizes are offered on the Etsy shop.
The Web site's PDF patterns include 3 print options, including one for US 8.5x11" paper. Sizing is very similar to Burda
sizing, including the tall and petite sizes.
The patterns do not have seam allowances or hems. You must add
them. The sewing instructions for all the patterns are available on the web site on the Instructions tab. This means you can read the instructions before buying a pattern. The
instructions are good. Text is in English and German, and there are many
pictures.
Makes of Oki Style pattern are not easily found in sewing blog land, and there were none for the two I sewed. I was attracted to the styles because they are recognizable silhouettes with a bit of a twist. The first pattern I made was the Joker blouse. It is a raglan sleeved blouse with fit and
flare shape.
It has a concealed button front, and undulating hem line.
I thought the pattern draft was quite clever. The bust and waist shaping is created by large vertical darts. The back yoke extends into the sleeve and creates a raglan sleeve with a
diagonal seam. The pattern was well drafted. All seam lines matched perfectly.
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| Back Yoke extending into sleeve |
I made the
pattern as designed except for one difference, necessitated by my fabric width. Because
the back has many darts, it requires 54-60" wide fabric to be cut on the fold. The dart in the center back is sewn to the outside. My fabric was not wide enough to cut the back on the fold. And I didn't want a seam in the middle of the dart. So I added a
center back seam following the dart legs , and a triangular shaped insert to replace the dart itself. The center back seam is effectively hidden by the dart insert and draping at the hemline.
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| Original Back Pattern Piece |
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| Back pattern with center back seam and insert |
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Dart insert
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My fabric was a fine grey and white cross woven shirting I bought at Hancock Fabrics several years ago. I made a size 42 tall. I hand basted the narrow hem around the bottom of the shirt before sewing it by machine. It took a long time, but I was at a sewing retreat and there was lots of lively conversation to distract from the tedium.
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| Oki Style Joker blouse front |
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| Oki Style Joker blouse side |
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| Oki Style Joker blouse back |
The 2nd pattern was the Oki Style Stanis jacket.
It is unlined
with cut on collar, darted front, faced edges and high side slits. The back has a yoke with flared lower back
panel. It has a two piece sleeve with the undersleeve cut from a knit fabric. I like the colors and scale of the check fabric
used on the original jacket, and the way it looked in the flared back panel.
Shopping from my stash I found a large scale, acrylic/wool plaid that was originally a
thrift shop pleated skirt. I was able to
do plaid matching fairly well given the limited amount of fabric I had. I did have to piece the fabric in the lower back yoke. The undersleeves are a heavier ponte type knit.
I interfaced the
jacket edges with fusible interfacing to prevent them from stretching during
construction and used a firm poly acetate lining fabric as the facings. The
instructions suggest you interface the facing.
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| Oki Style Stanis Jacket front |
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| Oki Style Stanis Jacket side |
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| Oki Style Stanis Jacket back |
I purchased several more of the patterns; a pair of pants,
two dresses and another blouse, which you will see in the future.
I love both these rather unique patterns and your makes are so interesting and well made. Thanks for sharing. Kaen
ReplyDeleteHow interesting! These are both great pieces and look very high fashion.
ReplyDeleteI also bought and printed this pattern a year ago and I've been meaning to sew it up ever since. One day soon, is the plan. I was happy to see a review for this one, it looks great on you.
ReplyDeleteThese are smart and stylish with a twist - very you!
ReplyDeleteGreat patterns and you made great use of them. Especially like the joker blouse. It's a new to me pattern company, will check on their patterns.
ReplyDeleteI LOVE that jacket particularly. I also love the shirt but know it wouldn't suit my short frame, but I love the lines. I think these designs are very interesting and thanks for putting them out there.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the links to this delightful designer. Your Joker blouse is wonderful, as is the Stanis jacket.
ReplyDeleteVancouver Barbara
those both look fantastic, and thanks for sharing this pattern company. I am always on the look out for interesting and complex patterns.
ReplyDeleteWow, those are really cute! Fun and different.
ReplyDeleteI like both of these especially the blouse. The pleats, hidden buttonhole and interesting hemline all make it a great sew AND it looks amazing on you!
ReplyDeleteWhat interesting patterns these are from a company I had not heard of before. Both pieces look great on you.
ReplyDeleteAudrey, would you be willing to tell us what size you generally use in Vogue patterns? I do hope so. It would help me decide which size to make up. Thank you. Antonia.
ReplyDeleteI usually make a Vogue pattern size 16 for bottoms. But for tops the size I choose depends on the finished garment measurement and the amount of ease I prefer over my bust measurement for the garment style. If the pattern does not have the finished garment measurement listed, I measure the pattern back and front on the bust line omitting the seams, darts and front overlap.
DeleteFor example, my bust is 38" if size 16 finished garment bust is 44" and size 14 is 42, I will choose a size 14 because I don't like any more that 4 inches wearing ease in the bust area on a blouse.
Thank you. As the person below says, I always learn from your posts.
DeleteIt's so nice to see the joker blouse made by someone else - it looks great on you. I have the pattern, have altered it and am ready to cut it out, but have just been dragging my feet because I don't have a "clean" way to mark all the darts on my lovely white Italian cotton. How did you mark your darts? Thanks for sharing - I always learn something from your blog posts.
ReplyDeleteI marked my darts with a tracing wheel and marking paper, however for your Italian cotton ( I'll bet it is beautiful) I would recommend marking the darts using tailor tacks. There are many "How to" posts and videos on the Internet. just Google "Marking darts with tailor tacks".
DeleteThanks for responding and for offering the how-to recommendations.
DeleteSuch interesting patterns. You have done a beautiful job with them.
ReplyDeleteWow I love both of these designs and your versions are gorgeous. Love how you worked the plaid on the back of the jacket, it has so much movement and seems so fluid. That is a truly snazzy jacket, the kind where you put it on and feel instantly together.
ReplyDeleteThey are both gorgeous, but the blouse is simply A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!!! I love it!!!
ReplyDeleteI am finally getting caught up on reading blogs and what a treat to see both of these great retreat projects in their final form. I am absolutely drooling on my keyboard. They look so unique and feminine which is sometimes a difficult combination. Your meticulous sewing and great fabric choices combined for fabulous fashion. So chic yet so comfortable.
ReplyDeleteI've never heard of this designer! Thanks for the review and photos and the links. The shirt is wonderful with all those darts and asymmetrical hem. I'm off to check out that Etsy shop!
ReplyDeleteCatching up on my blog reading-late to comment. Wow, love all of these makes!!! Love how you tackle difficult/challenging patterns!
ReplyDeleteJust seeing this now, and want to thank you because I've got Joker marinating in the pattern stash I've been debating about making it since the construction is so different and it takes so much fabric, a muslin seemed like a ton of work, and without, I wasn't sure about fit. I'm going to go for it now, and just cut--yours is fabulous.
ReplyDeleteHello and thank you for your informative post about the Oki-style patterns. I am about to embark on the free blouse as a test and have my eye on the Lennon skirt in a Merchant + Mills linen - you've given me the confidence in the pattern I needed to spur me on - thank you!
ReplyDeleteThanks for Sharing this informative article. joker jacket
ReplyDelete