Zip-a-dee-doo-dah - Burda 6637 Jacket

The weather has finally  cooled down and I actually feel like sewing winter clothes.  A recent  impulse fabric buy was a beautiful pink, purple, grey ombre brushed wool from Emmaonesock.com.  When an  online fabric vendor implements PayPay, as Emma One Sock did recently,  it become dangerous for me. Pay Pal eliminates the need for me to enter credit card info, which is when I ask myself, Do I really need this? (For fabric the answer is always No! ) Shortly after the fabric arrived, I saw this picture in my inspiration file.

And I just happened to have Burda Jacket pattern 6637 and some coordinating separating zippers in my stash.

The pattern description reads “ Both jackets have a slightly higher waist and easily lend a chic touch to any outfit. Although your favorite knit cardigan is great for a casual look, some occasions may call for a bit more elegance. Choose the jacket which suits your style and best flatters your figure.”

The inspiration jacket has a deep V  to the waist and a cutaway starting at the waist and  extending to the hem. The Burda pattern has a shorter V neck. I felt that the pattern was better for a convertible jacket, especially the cropped version because it would have small section of vertical front edge to use hooks and eyes to hold closed if desired.

Design Decisions I had to make.

1. Waist Seam Zipper – trim or functional – I decided to go with  a functional zipper so that bottom of the jacket could  removed.

2.  Zipper tape exposed or not – This decision determined the method of zipper application/ insertion and whether waistline seam allowance was needed. Exposed – could cut off seam allowance.  Non exposed, seam allowance needed  as zipper is inserted between lining and outer fabric.

3. Lining   -  Pattern is for unlined jacket.  I would have to draft a lining pattern.  The decision was Yes, a lining was definitely needed because the back of the wool flannel would catch on any garments worn underneath.

Additional changes for my body  - lengthening the back and shortening the front to get a horizontal waistline. Getting old is hell! Alterations for square, forward, narrow shoulders. This pattern has very wide shoulders. I removed about 1/2 inch in width.  I should have removed more. There is some extra fabric between the front armhole and the bust that bugs me.  It shows on the models on the pattern front too.

The fabric had two repeats of the ombre coloring just the right length to make it easy to cut and  match the colors across the jacket.

I ended up lining both the top and peplum to the edge of the waist seam even though I sewed the zipper tape to the outside of the fabric.  I reasoned that if I ever got tired of the zipper, I could remove it and sew the seam as designed.

I used two separating zippers. The separating ends were butted up to each other at center back.  Each zipper closed as it went from back to front.  In the front where the zipper extended past the front edge, I removed about 4 teeth on each side with wire cutter pliers.   I  removed the metal stops at the end of the zipper with the pliers and relocated them to the tape where the teeth ended at center front. I cut off the excess zipper tape at the end of the section where I removed the teeth, and turned it under.

Zipper Modifications

Zipper Modification Tools

I hand basted the closed zipper to the jacket top and peplum, making sure center back, side seams and darts lined up vertically. I top stitched the zipper in place near the zipper teeth and again near the outer edge of the zipper tape.

Back Zipper

Front Zipper

Photographing  sewn garments is  difficult in the winter. It is dark when I leave for work and dark when I get home, so weekends are the best time for outdoor photography.  But my idea of an ideal  winter weekend  is one where I do not have to leave the house. Comfortable clothes, no makeup, sewing, reading etc. I swear I have a hibernation mode. The only reason there are photos of the jacket on me is that DH, DS2 and I had to go to a nearby drugstore and get our Hepatitis A and Typhoid immunizations for an upcoming trip.   If I was going to get dressed for shots, it might as well be in my new jacket.

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Cropped