Marfy Make - Blouse 3888

I pre-ordered the spring summer 2016  Marfy pattern catalog back in Jan. and it arrived in my mailbox a couple weeks ago. I have about 7 issues of this catalog, some purchased as far back as 2002  Each issue comes with a couple of  "free" traceable patterns on an insert,  in sizes 42 to 50  ( US equivalent 6-14).   The insert patterns are usually simple tops, blouses and the occasional pants and jackets. While browsing through my latest issue, I realized l have never made one of the 'free' Marfy patterns.

Free Patterns Marfy Spring Summer 2016

 And that became my next sewing project.  I have been seeing lots of black blouses lately, in BurdaSyle, on the Internet fashion sites, and this one caught my eye. Blouse pattern 3888, with a stand collar, shaped lapel,  3/4 sleeves with contrast trim on the cuffs and center front, and armhole princess seams in both the back and front.


Marfy 3888

Near the top of the fabric piles that threaten to topple onto my work space, were a couple of fabrics that were perfect for the blouse. A light weight black, machine washed, silk dupioni, and for the trim a burgundy and black, cross woven, linen metallic. My measurements matched Marfy size 48 in the bust and a size 50 in the waist and hips. I checked the finished garment measurements and there was plenty of ease in the waist and hips of the size 48, so that is the size I chose. I did check the pattern against my sloper. I had to make the same upper back and shoulder alterations I make on any other commercial pattern. I am 5’ 8” tall which is usually a couple inches taller than pattern companies draft patterns for. When I used the patterns in the Italian Mia Boutique magazine I had to do significant length changes. Surprisingly I did not have to lengthen any of the body or sleeve pieces of this Marfy pattern.

 There are no directions with Marfy patterns. This slows me down because I have to think about and plan for next steps while sewing. I gave a lot of thought to the contrast trim. Cutting off the seam allowance and using bias binding seemed the logical choice until I realized that would be difficult to do neatly on a cuff that had to be seamed to a gathered sleeve bottom with a placket. I also had to figure out the width of the trim I wanted. My original choice of 1/2 inch was to wide for the narrow cuff and the front extension ( distance between center front and front edge). I ended up using a version of the "Mystery Bias Binding" described in Roberta Carr's book  "Couture, The Art of Fine Sewing" and attributed to Chanel. Contrast bias binding is attached to the top layer of cuff and lapel. Bottom cuff and lapel facing is cut from same contrast fabric and when sewn together looks like under cuff/facing wraps around to upper piece. Except I didn't use the contrast fabric for the lapel or cuff facings.

Marfy blouse 3888

Neckline Marfy 3888

 

Cuff Marfy 3888

 

 Marfy supplies an upper collar, lower collar and  front facing pattern pieces, but no back facing pattern. So I drafted one myself. I like back facings because they nicely cover the neckline seaming and provide a great place to attach a label.

  I am very happy with the fit of the finished blouse and am considering sewing  some of the other free blouse patterns.

After spending so much time on the blouse, it was fun to whip up a TNT( tried and true) skirt  from Pamela's Pattern The Magic Pencil Skirt  in little over an hour. The fabric is a stretch suiting from Vogue. One side is a tweed, the other is a tweed with blotches of a black shiny substance. I don't know what the black coating is,but I pressed it with the iron on high heat with no change or melting. Cool looking fabric.

 

 



 

 



Marfy 3888