Sept. Sewing

Some readers may know that this BLOG started out as a way to track my progress on a Timmel Farics sponsored SWAP (Sewing with a Plan) contest. It was the first time I had participated. Reading other participants BLOGs and postings on the discussion board at http://www.stichersguild.com/ really motivated me. Well a couple of weeks ago, I got to meet two other participants and see their SWAPs. It was wonderful. Mary and Jodi both live in Newport News, VA so the Fashion Focus Neighborhood group of the Richmond ASG chapter set up a meeting location mid way between Richmond and Newport News in a lovely historic Bed and Breakfast. Mary and Jodi brought multiple SWAP’s, since they have participated multiple years; Jody most recently in the http://www.patternview.com/ Wardrobe Planning contest. It was wonderful to see their creations in person. Jodi had several great wardrobes of casual garments that fit her lifestyle. Wonderful knit fabrics in rich colors and textures, made into garments with interesting details and styling. She was wearing one of the outfits from her SWAP and she looked great. And I got to see that fabulous coat she made by taking apart and copying an old favorite coat. Mary makes lovely tailored garments. She is definitely an expert seamstress. Her dress SWAP was very inspiring, especially since I had a hard time getting my head around the concept of a dress swap. Each dress was unique and had as much work in it as a tailored jacket. And there was a stylish jacket that went with all the dresses, which I know from personal experience, can be hard to accomplish. We all gave short presentations on our sewing backgrounds, described how we developed our SWAPs, why we chose certain fabrics and styles, learning’s, successes, etc. I had a great time and I know the other members of the FFG did too. Photos on the internet do not do justice to the garments and fabrics. All I could think of was how much harder the voting would be if we were seeing the SWAPs in person. Thanks to the Group coordinator Judy Sutter for setting that up.



I have started on another vintage dress. A 1947 Vogue pattern described as "four piece skirt joins bodice at waist line. Darts trim the hip pockets on skirt and the deep collar. Open or closed neckline, sleeve cut in one with blouse fronts, set in armhole in back. Long sleeve gathered to cuff band and three-quarter length sleeves.” I am making it in a lt. weight wool flannel in a medium blue. I especially liked the multiple darts on the pockets and the collar. The pattern is not printed, just a paper shape, with various perforations marking the darts and seam lines. The paper is crumbling and I have to be very careful when smoothing out the wrinkles. I have to add 4" to bust, waist and hips. The bodice is giving me fits because of the front cut on sleeve with underarm gussets and a back with a set in sleeve. I am not sure where to add the additional width. I may actually have to do a muslin of the top.

I am trying to stretch my creative horizons. I signed up for a fabric postcard class club at a local quilting store. I was inspired by the postcards made by Vicki http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/ and students who took her Fabric Postcard class. Yes I know, like I need something else to do, but I reasoned I could use fabric scraps from my sewing projects. I soon discovered Fallacy #1. Garment scraps are not near as exciting as new quilting fabrics and 2. Postcards are not going to make much of a dent in my scrap pile.

The post cards have to go out early next week and the dress has to be completed by the end of the month to be eligible for the contest. Fortunately this weekend is when the guys go off for a Boy Scout bike/camping trip and it is just Kitty and I at home. Hopefully I will get a lot done.

Speaking of Kitty, 2 different neighbors stopped by this week to tell me that they had seen a coyote in my yard. One had even verified it was not some mangy dog, by researching coyote's on the internet. I am a bit shocked as I live in Virginia, in a highly populated residential neighborhood of a big city. However, there is a 10 acre field between my back yard and heavily traveled River Road. I am hoping Mr. Coyote is munching on the teeming rabbit and squirrel populations, but just to be on safe side, I am keeping Ms. Kitty in at night.

Potting Sewl

I finished sewing another vintage dress. The pattern is the type that was ordered through a newspaper. I remember seeing the pictures of dress and craft patterns in the classified section of my childhood paper, The Pittsburgh Press. And I remember thinking the dress styles were years out of date and the crafts were old style embroidery. I believe these patterns are no longer offered in newspapers. The general consensus of the posters on http://www.patternreview.com/ Vintage Sewing contest discussion board is the pattern style is from the 1950’s or 60’s. One poster thought the short haircut on the model was similar to Audrey Hepburn’s when she was a popular movie star. I didn’t notice it until I read her comment and then I had to smile. Guess what actress I was named for? My mother was a big Audrey H. fan. I thought this dress looked like a summer sun dress and envisioned it in a small all over print. The brown cotton/linen, embroidered in pink flowers was on sale at JoAnne’s. As I was standing in the checkout line reviewing the paper that listed all my cut fabric, making sure I had gotten the sales price, I saw the words "Potting Soil" "What in the world?" I thought. Then I realized that the words were the fabric description, and it was for the brown embroidered fabric I was about to purchase. Normally fabric descriptions are short descriptive terms like fabric type, weave, or the manufacturers name. But "Potting Soil"?? Visions of a bored/mischievous inventory data entry person sprang to mind. One who did not like the color brown. I couldn’t resist changing soil to "sewl". That is the reason for the goofy post title.

I liked the style of the dress. The wide neckline, the bodice extending into the shoulder area, and the fitted silhouette with flared back skirt. The listed pattern measurements were all 4" smaller than mine. I pin fitted the pattern pieces on my dress form double, lining up center front and back. There must have been a lot of ease built into this pattern. I only added 1 in. to the bust and 2 in. to the waist, all in the front. The back width was fine. I did a SBA (small bust adjustment) at the princess seam. I inserted pink bias tape in the princess seams, neckline edge, and belt piece to emphasize them. The bias tape was a 1.5 inch wide, folded in half to ¾ inch. The raw edge of the tape was matched to the cut edge of the fabric so when the seam was sewn the folded edge extended an eighth of an inch beyond the seam line. I find this is less work than making and inserting piping, but it has a similar look.

I found some cute pink flower shaped buttons to use on the shoulders and back waist tab. I discovered that bodices extending into the shoulder areas do not work well on my sloping shoulders, when they have been cut for a square shoulder. I actually made small shoulder pads to hold the shoulder/button area more horizontal. I enjoyed sewing this dress. The combo of pattern and fabric really excited me and I look forward to my sewing time. By pushing myself to use patterns that are not in my size, I am learning so much about resizing patterns and fitting.

I am in a state of indecision about my next sewing project. I am conflicted between adding a couple of transitional pieces to my summer swap to make it wearable for warm fall weather or starting on some of the new fall patterns and winter fabrics. Or I could tackle another vintage pattern before the contest ends later this month.

Sewing 70's style

I finished the Vogue Paris Original pattern 2227, 1970's Pierre Balmain dress. It fit well without any alterations and was fairly easy to make. I wish I had made it in linen or wool double knit, instead of the poly cotton double knit. I just don't care for the synthetic knit blends. The neck and arm holes were just as snug as I thought they would be. The armholes don't bother me, no worries about undergarments showing, but I did lower the front neckline just a hair. I am going to transfer the neckline and armholes to my fitting sloper, since they fit so great.

I actually had more fun styling the dress to match the Versace dress mentioned in the previous post. I decided to buy a pair of above the elbow leather gloves like the ones in the picture, because I plan to make a couple of 3/4 length sleeve jackets for fall that I would wear the gloves with (in the car driving to work and walking into the office building). Could I find a pair leather gloves in VA in August? Heck no. The major dept. stores have not received their" winter leather goods" yet and even the online stores show delivery as late Sept, so I had to use the stretch lycra gloves used for Halloween dress up. Hubby and I were giggling hysterically as we walked around the yard looking for a suitable photo backdrop....the basketball hoop, the mini van, hoping the neighbors weren't home from church yet. We also shocked the sons, especially the 15 year old. The look on his face was priceless. "Hey bud, don't assume your parents are old, stodgy and predictable."

Switching Years

I finished making a couple of T- shirts for myself with lovely rayon/lycra knit fabrics from http://www.fashionistafabrics.com/.
And started work on a Vintage pattern.

I decided to sew the 60's Pierre Balmain dress. It is fairly simple and I might actually wear it. There was a similar dress in the Versace ad on page 63 in this month's Vogue Magazine. It is accessorized very differently than the 60's version. Interesting, but not a look I can carry off. The measurements of the pattern are very close to mine with the exception of the waist. I thought the easiest way to check the fit would be to pin the pattern to my packing tape dressform double, who I affectionately call Verite (French for truth). I made her last year in an all day session with Jan Bones http://www.sewlingere.com/ at the Sewing Expo in Chantilly VA. Verite is a very accurate double of my unique body shape.

I found the pattern at a Goodwill store, and it has obviously been used. I could tell by the tucks and pleats still taped in place, that the person was short waisted, had narrow shoulders and needed an extra inch or two in the hips. The adhesive on the tape was still very sticky and I was able to peel it away without damaging the pattern. The pattern fit Verite very well when I pinnedit on her. The center front needs to be shortened a bit and the arm hole may have to be cut lower. Both of these can be adjusted after initial construction. The pattern is well designed. It has match points every 4 " along any seam line. It includes 3/4 " seam allowances on seams that are to be topstitched. The armhole is cut higher for the sleeveless version, something I haven't seen frequently in patterns today, The pattern fabric recommendation includes double knit. I am using a med. weight, firm, 70/30 poly cotton double knit. The instructions recommend underlining all the garment pieces. I will try it on a couple to see how it changes the feel of the fabric. I am not sure the knit needs additional body, which is one purpose of underlining. But the instructions also say to catchstitch the armhole facings and hem to the underlining, and that will definitely give a more professional look. I remember my mother poring over the instructions for Vogue Paris Original patterns in the 70's and commenting on the advanced techniques used to construct the garments. I am going to try and use as many of them as possible just for the experience.

Another Sewing Contest

For my birthday last month, my good friend Ursula gave me a vintage pattern. There was no date printed on it, but the general consensus was that it was from the 1950’s. My mother remembers sewing a similar housecoat for her sister around that time and a check of pattern dating sites listed 1950 too. Which means the pattern is as old as I am. The outside envelope was starting to deteriorate but the inside pattern pieces were as good as new. Sort of like me, I hope. The present motivated me to search out all my vintage patterns. They were all over, in the attic and the basement. I know, I know, not great environmental conditions for archiving printed paper. Then I saw that there was a Vintage sewing contest over at http://www.patternreview.com/. To be eligible for the prizes, you must sew one garment from a vintage pattern or reprint of vintage pattern from 1920 to 1982. Yes, I signed up for the contest. It is just one garment, not a whole SWAP. But can I pick just one pattern? It is really tough. The time frame meant that the patterns I sewed in high school, in the early 70’s, are eligible. I still have them. Hipster elephant bell bottom pants, smocky tops by Kenzo and Ann Tice. I am tempted to make the bell-bottoms to give my kids a laugh. I will need platform shoes to complete the look. But from what I see in the magazine, platform shoes are coming back. Seriously, the patterns on my short list are....

One 1960 style dress. I have the perfect poly blend double-knit from a www.fabricmartfabrics.com free bundle. (I retrieved it from the give away pile). A 1940’s Vogue evening dress reprint from Eva Dress in olive lace and matching solid. A pattern, no name or date, of the type purchased through newspaper. And a 1920’s McCall’s pattern for a flapper type dress. Decisions, Decision. Oh yeah, and I order a bunch more vintage patterns from Etsy, which seems to have the best prices. This contest will be a learning experience in altering/resizing a pattern to fit me. None of these patterns match my measurements.

Terrific T-Shirts

We are back from a great vacation week in Rehoboth Beach, DE. We rent the biggest house we can afford a couple blocks from the beach and invite family and friends. My parents, 2 of 3 siblings, many cousins, and my best friend from college, live in MD, VA and DE, within a reasonable driving distance. It is a constant stream of people and food. The girls who sew always make a point of visiting Mare’s Bears, a quilting shop in Lewes, DE. We also shop the discount book stores for quilting, and craft books. We have been doing this for about 30 years and we have started to reminisce about some of the wilder “pre kids” times. It is now our kids that are providing the excitement. 13 year old girl and 15 years old boy cousins, testing the limits of their parent’s rules on boardwalk curfews and attire. The girls fell victim to a box of cute kittens “Free to a good home” and hid two of them in a bedroom of our ‘no pets rental” for several days before being discover by an adult. Fortunately two of their friends were able to take them. The week before vacation I finally got around to making a T-shirt for my younger sister Suzanne, from fabric she bought at G-Street fabrics. She is predominately a quilter, having had traumatic clothes sewing experiences in high school. We still chuckle about the time she sewed sleeves into a blouse upside down, matching the underarm of the sleeves to the shoulder seam. The blouse fit great when she held her arms up in a cheerleader “rah rah” pose. Any other arm position resulted in tight shoulders and massive bunching under the arm. I too have my share of of similar sewing incidents.

For her T-shirt I chose to go with Simplicity 4076, which has 50 plus good reviews on http://www.patternreview.com. I had sent her instructions on taking her bust, waist and back measurements. I included my measurements, thinking if she saw mine she would not be surprised or dismayed at her own. Though we have similar coloring and hair, she is smaller and has cuter features than I do. I was sure her measurements would be very different than mine. Image our surprise when they were exactly the same, except she is longer waisted. As she said, she is the same top on shorter legs.
It did make fitting a snap though. The reviews of that pattern are right on the money. The gathered front T shirt was easy to make, and it fit great. That made me want to try the other styles, so I raided my stash and whipped up the crossover top and knotted front versions as well. All winners! Here she is modeling all three tops in front of the beach house. They all went great with her white pants.

I liked them so much, I orders some great print knits from http://fashionistafabrics.com that coordinated with my summer SWAP (Yes, Melody, that was me. Love the fabrics!) My sister liked the shirts so much she asked if I thought she could make one on her regular sewing machine. I told her yes, and brought two smallish suitcases of knits from my stash to the beach for her to choose from. My husband rolled his eyes whan he found out the suitcases contained fabric. All the girls happily helped her choose a couple of pieces. It is so great to have sewing friends and relatives!

Purr Sueded

I fixed the links for the SWAPs on the sidebar to point to my flicker photos. My guys are off this week at Scout Camp near Pulaski, VA. My husband is coming home a couple days early to take me out to celebrate my 50th birthday on Friday. It is Friday the 13th, but for me that day has never been bad luck.

This past week I had various scout things to do to get the boys ready to go. Sewing badge after badge on shirts and sashes. Some day I am going to digitize the shape of a scout merit badge to make the sewing easier. If anyone has already done it, please share! Nothing like trying to go around a circle the size of a quarter neatly. Another task was to purchase a moccasin kit for youngest son so he could complete his Leather Working merit badge at camp. I stopped by the local Tandy Leather store to get the kit. This store typically carries, in addition to the kit I was after, loads of heavy, stiff black leather. I am not sure who their customers are, but there must be a lot of motorcycle riders or local equestrians that are into making their own chaps, studded belts, saddle bags, etc. The store never has much in the way of garment leather except for pig suede in black, and garish colors like purple and orange. This visit, I was surprised to find suede in aqua and a soft green. After much mental arguing, I succumbed. I actually made this suede top a couple of years ago for my Sewing with Leather presentation at an ASG meetting. Funny how a presentation deadline can motivate you. It wasn't difficult to sew and I wear it a lot in the winter. Then the Aug/Sept issue of Vogue Pattern Magazine arrived and it had a new pattern for a suede jacket I loved. It is not on the Vogue web site yet, so here is a picture of Vogue 2087. The fortuitous arrival of this new pattern put an end to any unease I had about the suede purchase. I think it will look lovely in the green.