Netherlands Tour

  I just returned from the Threads Magazine tour of European Couture Design and Sewing in the Netherlands. The tour started in Amsterdam, and continued to other areas of the Netherlands, with museum visits, fabric shopping, and classes in couture techniques.  This trip was a special treat I had saved up for.  It was not inexpensive, and my husband did not understand why I would want to travel somewhere without him.  He asked, " Are there spouse activities?" Not this trip, Honey.   It is so much fun to travel with a group of people from all over (US, Canada, and Germany) with similar interests, in a beautiful country. 

 I missed some of the tour activities because my travel buddy/roommate misplaced her passport. We had to split up from the group to visit the American consulate and get her a new passport. Then take trains from Amsterdam out into the countryside to catch up with the tour.  Ah, travel adventures. We all have stories.  

 I will mention the activities I enjoyed the most. 

 At the Rijksmuseum we had a guided tour of famous artworks with special emphasis on the textiles and clothing worn by the people in the paintings and their meaning or significance.  Who knew those sober black suits of the judges of the Amsterdam guild for clothmakers (Rembrandt 1606-1669) indicated power and wealth because to get a true black color, the fabric had to be dyed multiple times.

The  Textiel Museum had displays of the machinery and methods used to weave wool blankets and make passementerie. The passementerie was so interesting, I purchased this book on the technique when I got home Passementerie: Handcrafting Contemporary Trimmings, Fringes, Tassels, and More

Passementerie

But my favorite part was the Textile Lab, a unique development center for textiles. We were able to watch visiting textile artists, using state of the art knitting and weaving equipment, to form innovative woven fabrics and knits.   Many of the works was displayed in the sample room and included some truly incredible textiles.  I took so many pictures of the samples.

Samples

For fabric shopping we visited Albert Cuyp Street Market in Amsterdam which included several interesting stores, but no purchases. Traveling outside of Amsterdam we shopped at Textielstad- advertised as the biggest and best fabric store in the Netherlands, and Harrie Bosch.

 Textielstad was large, with loads of modern fabrics. Loved this sign at the entrance of the store.

 Textielstad 

One of the store clerks had recreated this Taylor Swift outfit and it was on display.  I sent the picture to my DIL who is a huge fan.

T Swift Coat

And I loved this sample garment made using Burda pattern 5941. I have been searching my stash for a similar fabric.

Burda 5941

 My favorite store was Harrie Bosch, which had unique silks, wool knits and bouclé.  One of the other customers there was choosing fabrics to be used to recreate the outfits of the Dutch queen for an upcoming documentary film. I felt a bit sorry for her when our group invaded this small store.  Unfortunately, whoever planned the fabric shopping stops on the tour limited us to 1 hour for shopping, cutting, and paying.   For 17 ladies. What? The planner must not have been a fabric lover. Feedback was given.

 I kept my fabric purchases to a minimum because I have a huge stash. But I have already sewn a garment from one of the purchases, which I will talk about in a future post

 At the Dutch Couture Academy in Doesburg, our 3-day masterclass focused on the couture techniques of moulage, silk flower making, and lacework. Because I tend to be a technical, production process sewist, trying these slower paced creative techniques was a bit uncomfortable. But I learned so much, and I am determined to use these techniques on future projects. Saskia ter Welle, the fashion designer who owns the Acadamy, is a gifted designer, a wonderful teacher and a truly charming person. Doesburg is a picturesque and old (incorporated in 1223) town. 

Dutch Couture Academy

Draped Dress Forms

Class - Dutch Couture Academy

Yes, those are wine glasses on the worktables.  The late afternoon break included wine, bottled by Saskia's husband, from grapes grown in the Netherlands. It was very good.

Our last night of the tour included a boat tour of the Amsterdam canals.  It was so pretty.

Independant Pattern Makes

Independant pattern companies are everywhere, in addition to the well-known sites on the internet, I like to browse at the clothing patterns offered by the shops on Etsy. There are hundreds.  Many are same old, same old...how many ways can you draft a basic T shirt? but you can find some unique ones, and if you are willing to take a chance on the quality of the pattern drafting, instructions, etc., it can be a fun adventure.  Here are my recent makes.

1.  1920's Irish Flat cap from Etsy shop   ElseWhenMillinery  I made it as an example of using "underlining" to strengthen delicate fabrics for a presentation to a local ASG group on Linings and Underlinings .  It is made from silk jacquard tie scraps, which wiggle and ravel, until they are underlined with cotton flannel. Then they behave beautifully.  The pattern was well drafted, and the written instruction were detailed and clear. I especially like that this pattern came in different head sizes.  

2, Tallinn Blouse from Etsy Shop  Fabrico Patterns

Cotton Sateen fabric from Fabric Mart Fabrics

Tallinn Blouse

I chose the pattern because I wanted to sew a blouse without a front placket. I wasn't in the mood for buttons and buttonholes.  The pattern was well drafted.  The written instructions had lots of pictures. The blouse has a very low, open neck.  Okay for me, but something to consider for yourself. I had to make some adjustments to the shoulder area to keep it from pulling to the back as shown in the site picture above. It still does a bit.

3. Turtleneck Jumper Diana from Etsy store This Is Katchi

I was intrigued by the swirly, pieced design and up for the challenge.  I had no coordinating fabrics suitable for this top. My solution was to overdye a yard of some green rib knit with blue dye to create a slightly darker, coordinating color to the original fabric. I used the dyed fabric as the contrast in this design.  I did not use the actual turtleneck pattern. It appeared to be drafted oddly, based on my experience and figure shape.  The triangular shaped sleeve heads and short blocky torso pieces did not bode well for a garment that would fit my body. Perhaps the recommended 50% stretch fabric was supposed to cover all the wearer's bumps and lumps.

 Instead, I used BurdaStyle  turtleneck Style 121 from Sept 2010 issue and used the swirl design from the Diana pattern.  

 There are written instructions, and a YouTube video for this pattern.  The 2nd half of the video explains how to create the swirly design on the basic pattern and how to sew it together. Sewing was a challenge, as my table buddy, at the sewing retreat where I made this, can attest. But I am happy with the results.

Diana Swirl Turtleneck

4. (not from Etsy) Fitzroy Blouse from Liesl Gibson at Oliver and S. It has a subtly raised shawl collar creating a flattering high V neckline. I chose to make the softly pleated tucks on the sleeve for View A.  Fabric is a "vintage" (looked like deadstock from the 90's) wool crepe print of blue morning glories on a purple background from Gala Fabrics in Canada. This particular fabric is no longer available. Liesl patterns and instructions are always great. 

Fitzroy Blouse