Double Cloth Coat UFO - Complete

 During the uncharacteristic cold and snowy weather in Jan and Feb, I found myself  unmotivated to do anything except watch YouTube videos. I felt guilty about not doing any sewing.  So, as a guilt assuager, I pulled out an unfinished project that required hand sewing. At least I could do some "hand" sewing while vegetating in front of the screen. The project was a coat I cut out of wool double cloth about a year ago. I wanted to use special seaming and finishing techniques to create a completely reversible garment.  But lacking confidence in my ability and stick-to-itiveness, I purchased a sale priced, 2-yard double cloth remnant in boring colors for this project. After cutting out the pattern pieces, I lost interest and packed it all away.

The fabric was “Taupe Brown/Black Wool Blend Double Weave Jacketing” from www.FashionFabricClub.com. The coat pattern I used was BurdaStyle Coat 10 2023 #110   I had to shorten the coat and seam fabric to the bottom of the sleeve because of limited fabric.

 What FFC called “double weave” is what I would more accurately describe as double cloth. Double cloth fabrics are made of two separate fabric layers, attached with wrong sides together by a third set of warp threads, to form a thicker and more substantial fabric. At the fabric edge, you can peel apart the two fabrics and see the connecting threads. 

Connecting threads between layers of double cloth

 Many types of wool and cotton can be made into double cloth, and in all sorts of combinations—like contrasting solids, a solid and a plaid, or a smooth surface with a napped surface. There are special seaming and finishing techniques that can be used with double cloth garments to make them reversible. It involves splitting the fabric at the garment edges and seams.  And a lot of hand sewing to get everything looking neat and tidy.  I had never done this type of construction before and I was so intimidated after cutting out the garment, I set the project aside. 

I did find resources on sewing double cloth, reversible garments. They are listed below.  

Double Cloth Garment Constuction Resources

Websites and YouTube

 Double Fabrics - The Pattern Line

Maria Sewing: Tutorials

a-reversible-double-cloth-coat-with-matching-scarf

Design A Double - Faced Wool Coat / Part 1

Threads Magazine

Threads magazine has, over the years, published some very good articles on this subject. Several include incorporating style details that I did not see mentioned anywhere else. Unfortunately, you will need access to the magazine, either printed or online, to read them.  

Elliott, Mary: "The Cloth with No Wrong Side", Threads, March 1997 (#69) pp. 60–63 Really interesting inseam pocket for reversible double cloth garments.

Mazur, Anna: "Reversible Techniques for Double Cloth", Threads, Taunton Press, February/March 2006 (#123)

King, Kenneth:  Classy piping highlights both sides Threads Jan 2011 #152 Interesting technique for inserting piping in edges of double cloth garment

Debby Spence: Double Cloth Sewing Techniques, Part 1 Techniques to ensure Elegant Seams, Edges, and Corners   Threads #223, Fall 2023

Debby Spence: Double Cloth Sewing Techniques, Part 2 Advanced Techniques for Darts and Closures  Threads #224, Winter 2023 Includes instructions on inserting an invisible zip in double cloth

Japanese Pattern Magazine Mrs. Stylebook,  

I know this resource is not for everyone. However, the Japanese Pattern Magazine Mrs. Stylebook, Issue 210 Oct 2022 had over 14 pages of color photos and diagrams showing how to sew every detail of a reversible double cloth coat. It also included a unique pocket, usable from both sides, that I included on my coat. I translated the Japanese text using the Google Translate app on my phone. Using the app and the camera, I captured pictures of the pages with the English text and saved them to a folder for easy access.  My husband saw me looking through my phone at the magazine pages and said with an incredulous tone in his voice “Are you using the magnifier to read a magazine?  I assured him my current glasses worked well, and I was using the translator app. The magazine is available from Etsy seller "pomadour24" Mrs Stylebook   Warning, the postage is more that the cost of the magazine.  I have a subscription from a foreign document service based in NY and it is slightly cheaper.

Mrs. Stylebook, Issue 210 Oct 2022

Pocket from Mrs. Stylebook, Issue 210 Oct 2022

I am so proud of myself for finishing this UFO. I won't be able to wear it until next fall as the weather has warmed up. See my daffodils.  You'd think at my age I would have had more confidence in my skills and used a fabric in colors that fit into my wardrobe. But on the other hand, because of my age, I have a huge fabric stash that includes some beautiful double cloth. Maybe a project for next winter.

Kitty Kraze

 

I finally retired from all paid employment on Jan 1. No more IT contracting work. I am still adjusting. My first sewing project of the year was a shirt in a cat print. 

Fabric: Mood Exclusive White Kitty Kraze Cotton Poplin 109 gsm

 I sew in silence. No TV, no podcasts, or audiobooks. Maybe some new age music. It is my time to think.  The cat print made me think of cats. My family has always had cats. We tried a few dogs when I was a child, but they never stayed long.  Thinking about the cats I have now. None were chosen by me. I have two. LaLa, her name shortened from “Letang”. The name chosen by my sons, after their favorite NHL player.  She was being raised in an apartment by my son's friend, and one of the roommates developed allergies. My son talked me into taking her.  

Ginger.  I remember visiting my parents when they were in their late 70’s and being introduced to their three new kittens. Not one, but 3. Not older cats, but kittens. I know the enjoyment pets can give.  But I am pragmatic.  I turned to my siblings and said “Do you want to put dibs on the one you will end up with when the parents are no longer able to care for them.  Fast forward 5 years. My brother got the pretty one, who later required the kidney stone operation and special diet. I got the other two. Koi, a cantankerous cuss, who passed not too long ago, and Ginger, still with us – a runt of the litter with related health issues that require her to have pureed food and an aversion to using the litter box.  She is so underweight and bony under her fur that it isn’t pleasant to pet her.  Hubby and I have said no pets after these are gone.  But honestly, if I found a stray or one was in need of a home…  And if it outlives me, my kids will have to deal with it.

Pattern: Burda 5 23 110 Used the top of this dress pattern for the closure, darts, etc. used before for other blouses.

Burda 5 23 110

 Picture taken in our 3rd snowstorm of the winter.  We typically do not get snow where I live. The first snowstorm was pretty, until the power was out for 24 hours. The second was heavy, wet snow. Large branches breaking off the trees and crashing to the ground in our backyard. We got the yard cleaned up and next winter's firewood stacked. Now this.  It is keeping my husband from picking up his new car at a dealership a couple of hours drive from our home.  Can't wait for spring.

Surprise Dec Vacation

I was invited to go on a girls' trip to Aruba in early Dec. with my sister and her friends, when one of the ladies had to cancel. 

Morning view from our room

 I had 24 hours between deplaning from a trip to Louisiana, to repack my suitcase and drive 2.5 hours north to a major airport to catch a nonstop flight to Aruba. Fortunately, I had just completed a couple of summer garments for a cruise planned in late Jan.  Aruba was a good test of my cruise wardrobe.  

 First item was a dress from McCall's 7974.  I used this pattern to make a dress for my DIL several years ago.   Marion Dress

The fabric was purchased "As Is" with a minor defect, from FabricMartFabrics.com.   When it arrived, I was pleased with the fabric weight, texture and metallic accent threads. But the color was too pale for me.  I dyed the fabric in my washing machine using cobalt blue Rit dye and it resulted in a beautiful color. 

Fabric conversion

McCall's 7974

Second item was a top to match a pair of RTW salmon-colored shorts.  The fabric was a 1 yard 54" remnant of what I think was silk cotton lawn in a tan and salmon pink print.  I have no documentation of where this fabric came from. Most likely the Give Away table at the ASG meeting. I find a lot of summer styles I like in my old Burda magazines.  This top came from the July 2010 issue, style number 131.   I omitted the waist drawstring. 

Burda 2 2010 131

Burda 2 2010 131

I also got to wear a Burda coverup I made about 5 years ago.

Burda 06 1997 107

Sisters

The vacation was great; hot sunny weather, good food, lots of talking and laughing. The flight back, normally 4.5 hours, was extended to 7 hours when the plane diverted to Dominican Republic to offload a passenger with a medical emergency.  My husband watches flight progress real time on the app Flight Aware. When we landed in the DR and I activated my phone for cell service there, his "what is happening?" texts popped up. The flight direction/path had changed so abruptly he thought there were mechanical problems.  As a result of the longer flight, my 2.5-hour drive back home was in the wee hours of the morning. Just me and the Amazon trucks on I95 South.

Back to cold weather and holiday preparation.  Hope everyone has a wonderful Holiday season.

Netherlands Tour

  I just returned from the Threads Magazine tour of European Couture Design and Sewing in the Netherlands. The tour started in Amsterdam, and continued to other areas of the Netherlands, with museum visits, fabric shopping, and classes in couture techniques.  This trip was a special treat I had saved up for.  It was not inexpensive, and my husband did not understand why I would want to travel somewhere without him.  He asked, " Are there spouse activities?" Not this trip, Honey.   It is so much fun to travel with a group of people from all over (US, Canada, and Germany) with similar interests, in a beautiful country. 

 I missed some of the tour activities because my travel buddy/roommate misplaced her passport. We had to split up from the group to visit the American consulate and get her a new passport. Then take trains from Amsterdam out into the countryside to catch up with the tour.  Ah, travel adventures. We all have stories.  

 I will mention the activities I enjoyed the most. 

 At the Rijksmuseum we had a guided tour of famous artworks with special emphasis on the textiles and clothing worn by the people in the paintings and their meaning or significance.  Who knew those sober black suits of the judges of the Amsterdam guild for clothmakers (Rembrandt 1606-1669) indicated power and wealth because to get a true black color, the fabric had to be dyed multiple times.

The  Textiel Museum had displays of the machinery and methods used to weave wool blankets and make passementerie. The passementerie was so interesting, I purchased this book on the technique when I got home Passementerie: Handcrafting Contemporary Trimmings, Fringes, Tassels, and More

Passementerie

But my favorite part was the Textile Lab, a unique development center for textiles. We were able to watch visiting textile artists, using state of the art knitting and weaving equipment, to form innovative woven fabrics and knits.   Many of the works was displayed in the sample room and included some truly incredible textiles.  I took so many pictures of the samples.

Samples

For fabric shopping we visited Albert Cuyp Street Market in Amsterdam which included several interesting stores, but no purchases. Traveling outside of Amsterdam we shopped at Textielstad- advertised as the biggest and best fabric store in the Netherlands, and Harrie Bosch.

 Textielstad was large, with loads of modern fabrics. Loved this sign at the entrance of the store.

 Textielstad 

One of the store clerks had recreated this Taylor Swift outfit and it was on display.  I sent the picture to my DIL who is a huge fan.

T Swift Coat

And I loved this sample garment made using Burda pattern 5941. I have been searching my stash for a similar fabric.

Burda 5941

 My favorite store was Harrie Bosch, which had unique silks, wool knits and bouclé.  One of the other customers there was choosing fabrics to be used to recreate the outfits of the Dutch queen for an upcoming documentary film. I felt a bit sorry for her when our group invaded this small store.  Unfortunately, whoever planned the fabric shopping stops on the tour limited us to 1 hour for shopping, cutting, and paying.   For 17 ladies. What? The planner must not have been a fabric lover. Feedback was given.

 I kept my fabric purchases to a minimum because I have a huge stash. But I have already sewn a garment from one of the purchases, which I will talk about in a future post

 At the Dutch Couture Academy in Doesburg, our 3-day masterclass focused on the couture techniques of moulage, silk flower making, and lacework. Because I tend to be a technical, production process sewist, trying these slower paced creative techniques was a bit uncomfortable. But I learned so much, and I am determined to use these techniques on future projects. Saskia ter Welle, the fashion designer who owns the Acadamy, is a gifted designer, a wonderful teacher and a truly charming person. Doesburg is a picturesque and old (incorporated in 1223) town. 

Dutch Couture Academy

Draped Dress Forms

Class - Dutch Couture Academy

Yes, those are wine glasses on the worktables.  The late afternoon break included wine, bottled by Saskia's husband, from grapes grown in the Netherlands. It was very good.

Our last night of the tour included a boat tour of the Amsterdam canals.  It was so pretty.

Independant Pattern Makes

Independant pattern companies are everywhere, in addition to the well-known sites on the internet, I like to browse at the clothing patterns offered by the shops on Etsy. There are hundreds.  Many are same old, same old...how many ways can you draft a basic T shirt? but you can find some unique ones, and if you are willing to take a chance on the quality of the pattern drafting, instructions, etc., it can be a fun adventure.  Here are my recent makes.

1.  1920's Irish Flat cap from Etsy shop   ElseWhenMillinery  I made it as an example of using "underlining" to strengthen delicate fabrics for a presentation to a local ASG group on Linings and Underlinings .  It is made from silk jacquard tie scraps, which wiggle and ravel, until they are underlined with cotton flannel. Then they behave beautifully.  The pattern was well drafted, and the written instruction were detailed and clear. I especially like that this pattern came in different head sizes.  

2, Tallinn Blouse from Etsy Shop  Fabrico Patterns

Cotton Sateen fabric from Fabric Mart Fabrics

Tallinn Blouse

I chose the pattern because I wanted to sew a blouse without a front placket. I wasn't in the mood for buttons and buttonholes.  The pattern was well drafted.  The written instructions had lots of pictures. The blouse has a very low, open neck.  Okay for me, but something to consider for yourself. I had to make some adjustments to the shoulder area to keep it from pulling to the back as shown in the site picture above. It still does a bit.

3. Turtleneck Jumper Diana from Etsy store This Is Katchi

I was intrigued by the swirly, pieced design and up for the challenge.  I had no coordinating fabrics suitable for this top. My solution was to overdye a yard of some green rib knit with blue dye to create a slightly darker, coordinating color to the original fabric. I used the dyed fabric as the contrast in this design.  I did not use the actual turtleneck pattern. It appeared to be drafted oddly, based on my experience and figure shape.  The triangular shaped sleeve heads and short blocky torso pieces did not bode well for a garment that would fit my body. Perhaps the recommended 50% stretch fabric was supposed to cover all the wearer's bumps and lumps.

 Instead, I used BurdaStyle  turtleneck Style 121 from Sept 2010 issue and used the swirl design from the Diana pattern.  

 There are written instructions, and a YouTube video for this pattern.  The 2nd half of the video explains how to create the swirly design on the basic pattern and how to sew it together. Sewing was a challenge, as my table buddy, at the sewing retreat where I made this, can attest. But I am happy with the results.

Diana Swirl Turtleneck

4. (not from Etsy) Fitzroy Blouse from Liesl Gibson at Oliver and S. It has a subtly raised shawl collar creating a flattering high V neckline. I chose to make the softly pleated tucks on the sleeve for View A.  Fabric is a "vintage" (looked like deadstock from the 90's) wool crepe print of blue morning glories on a purple background from Gala Fabrics in Canada. This particular fabric is no longer available. Liesl patterns and instructions are always great. 

Fitzroy Blouse

Cu Metallic Jacket

 

Sewing friends, that have gone fabric shopping with me know that I am attracted to unusual, unique fabrics.  When  I say, “Look at this  great fabric”.  They graciously reply “That is interesting.  or  laugh and say, “That is so you!”  

The first time I saw the fabric below on the DenverFabric.com site,  I drooled, but didn't buy it.  A couple weeks later, when there was a site wide sale,  I gave in and  bought 1.5 yards.

This is a soft,  coarsely woven fabric  that is coated with a copper-colored metallic plastic on one side.  Because the weave is so coarse, not all the fibers are covered, making the metallic coating  look like it is weathered and  flaking.   The non glazed side of the fabric, looks like a woven black coating.

 I chose the pattern below because the fabric requirements were close to my yardage, and the solid side of the fabric could be used for the center lapel section to break up the expanse of shiny fabric.  The black strapping trim on the sleeves added additional contrast and vertical lines.

 There are lots of makes and comments on this jacket on the Burda.ru  site.  The Burda Russian site is where I go to see Burda patterns on real people. I use the Chrome browser Google Translate extension  to automatically translate all kinds of foreign language sites to English.  On the Burda.ru site  you can look at specific  patterns and any makes by selecting  "Magazines" in the top ribbon. select the year of the magazine and the issue.  Select "Look inside" eye icon  on the issue picture and scroll to the pattern model. Click on model picture to open. Scroll to bottom of page to see pictures and comments of people who have sewn the garment.

The fabric was easy to sew, on either side.  Pressing seams was a No No as it melted the copper coating and caused it to lose shine.  So, seams were topstitched if possible,  or tacked in place with hand stitching.  Hem edges were controlled or flattened a bit  by using a pick stitch sewn on the inside near the edge with no see through on the outside.   This is a technique used by couture sewist  Susan Kalje.  Threads Mag - Pick Stitch Video

  While I was sewing this jacket  I realized it has been  4 or 5 years since I had  sewn a tailored jacket with linings and lapels, collar stands, etc.   I thoroughly enjoyed the process of sewing this jacket. 

Burda 12 2019 111

It is a unique, memorable garment and would probably look really stunning on someone with auburn or brown hair. But  I like it a lot.

My current life in Blouses

 I have always worn separates; blouses, pants, sweaters and jackets.  When I was working in the corporate world,  I sewed a lot of silk blouses. This summer  I sewed three shirts/blouses , and thinking about them,  I had to smile at how they reflect the clothing needs and activities of my current lifestyle.

All three blouses are sewn from  BurdaStyle magazine patterns.  The first one is an old pattern that I traced many years ago  but never made. From the  April  2004 issue , shirt 121.  The unique feature of this blouse is that  it has detachable sleeves.

Burda 04 2004 121 blouse with detachable sleeves

 Why did I make a detachable sleeve blouse?  So, I would have a versatile garment to pack for vacation trips. I  wear it with sleeves as an over blouse.  An extra layer in cool weather,  or as protection  from the sun or biting bugs.  And without the  sleeves in hot weather.  

Any  blouse pattern or jacket can be adapted for removable sleeves using the  method of this pattern .  Add a facing to the bodice sleeve opening for a clean  finish and support. In this model it is sewn to the outside. Add a flange, in same shape as the bodice sleeve facing,  to the sleeve armhole edge. Sew buttons on the flange and matching buttonholes  around the faced bodice armhole opening. And voila a detachable sleeve. 

Detachable Sleeve

These show up occasionally in fashion and  in recent BurdaStyle magazine     Jacket 111 | 04/18

This blouse pattern, from  2004, was oversized by today’s fit styles.  I removed about 1 inch  in shoulder width and several inches in circumference  and it is still big. The fabric was a cotton plaid shirting from my stash.  It served its purpose well on a weeklong fishing vacation to Lake Murray in South Carolina.  We didn’t catch much from the dock ( probably cause Sis and I were making too much noise) but pulled in enough perch for several nights’ dinner while out on the  boat. 

Burda 4 2004 121

Sisters

Blouse  number 2 is Burda 9 2023  125  A fitted style with bust darts and vertical darts in the back. 

Burda 9 2023 shirt 125

 I recently gave a presentation to my ASG group on the “common fabrics recommended on the back of patterns”. When I was creating the sample packs containing all the fabric types, I could not find any cotton sateen in my stash.  A perfect excuse for some fabric shopping.  I found a cotton sateen printed with  pink hearts, wine bottles and glasses at FabricMartFabrics.com.  I loved the print, and it made the  perfect shirt to wear to a recent Wine and Oyster festival.  We live relatively close to Chesapeake Bay and several tidal rivers where oysters are raised.  It is fun to sample the wines from local vineyards and eat oysters in many forms;  raw, grilled, fried, or stewed.  The blouse looked perfect accessorized by my “wine bra” (what the men in my family call a wine glass holder lanyard, sigh! I am surrounded by males). 

roasted oysters with peppers and cheese

Third blouse  was  Dress 110 | Burda Style 05/23.  The dress top ends at the hip and has a flounce skirt.  I liked the fitted style of the  top, all the darts and a back yoke and  shaped back seam.  It was the same style as two RTW shirts I still wear frequently.  I added a shirttail hem and  made it as a blouse.

Burda 05 23 110 dress as shirt

The fabric is a shirting cotton  print of cocktails on a black background. also from FabricMartFabrics.  I love a black based print. So easy to wear with black trousers or jeans,  and a brightly colored sweater or accessories.  A close look at the print revealed it is holiday themed.  The drinks are accented with fir branches, candy cane stir sticks and the straws are topped with elf hats. So fun! I added a  contrast stripe fabric for the inner collar band and yoke lining and  red, flat piping at the yoke seams.  It will be perfect to wear to my sister’s retirement party that will be held at her local VFW (Veterans for Foreign Wars) Post, so um.. super casual, and end of year holiday parties with my sewing buddies or the retiree social group.

Based on the  themed print fabrics I am attracted to now, I am so afraid that when I get grandkids,  I will be the one wearing  a T shirt embroidered with "Bubba's Memaw" Guess I will wait and see.