Netherlands Tour

  I just returned from the Threads Magazine tour of European Couture Design and Sewing in the Netherlands. The tour started in Amsterdam, and continued to other areas of the Netherlands, with museum visits, fabric shopping, and classes in couture techniques.  This trip was a special treat I had saved up for.  It was not inexpensive, and my husband did not understand why I would want to travel somewhere without him.  He asked, " Are there spouse activities?" Not this trip, Honey.   It is so much fun to travel with a group of people from all over (US, Canada, and Germany) with similar interests, in a beautiful country. 

 I missed some of the tour activities because my travel buddy/roommate misplaced her passport. We had to split up from the group to visit the American consulate and get her a new passport. Then take trains from Amsterdam out into the countryside to catch up with the tour.  Ah, travel adventures. We all have stories.  

 I will mention the activities I enjoyed the most. 

 At the Rijksmuseum we had a guided tour of famous artworks with special emphasis on the textiles and clothing worn by the people in the paintings and their meaning or significance.  Who knew those sober black suits of the judges of the Amsterdam guild for clothmakers (Rembrandt 1606-1669) indicated power and wealth because to get a true black color, the fabric had to be dyed multiple times.

The  Textiel Museum had displays of the machinery and methods used to weave wool blankets and make passementerie. The passementerie was so interesting, I purchased this book on the technique when I got home Passementerie: Handcrafting Contemporary Trimmings, Fringes, Tassels, and More

Passementerie

But my favorite part was the Textile Lab, a unique development center for textiles. We were able to watch visiting textile artists, using state of the art knitting and weaving equipment, to form innovative woven fabrics and knits.   Many of the works was displayed in the sample room and included some truly incredible textiles.  I took so many pictures of the samples.

Samples

For fabric shopping we visited Albert Cuyp Street Market in Amsterdam which included several interesting stores, but no purchases. Traveling outside of Amsterdam we shopped at Textielstad- advertised as the biggest and best fabric store in the Netherlands, and Harrie Bosch.

 Textielstad was large, with loads of modern fabrics. Loved this sign at the entrance of the store.

 Textielstad 

One of the store clerks had recreated this Taylor Swift outfit and it was on display.  I sent the picture to my DIL who is a huge fan.

T Swift Coat

And I loved this sample garment made using Burda pattern 5941. I have been searching my stash for a similar fabric.

Burda 5941

 My favorite store was Harrie Bosch, which had unique silks, wool knits and bouclé.  One of the other customers there was choosing fabrics to be used to recreate the outfits of the Dutch queen for an upcoming documentary film. I felt a bit sorry for her when our group invaded this small store.  Unfortunately, whoever planned the fabric shopping stops on the tour limited us to 1 hour for shopping, cutting, and paying.   For 17 ladies. What? The planner must not have been a fabric lover. Feedback was given.

 I kept my fabric purchases to a minimum because I have a huge stash. But I have already sewn a garment from one of the purchases, which I will talk about in a future post

 At the Dutch Couture Academy in Doesburg, our 3-day masterclass focused on the couture techniques of moulage, silk flower making, and lacework. Because I tend to be a technical, production process sewist, trying these slower paced creative techniques was a bit uncomfortable. But I learned so much, and I am determined to use these techniques on future projects. Saskia ter Welle, the fashion designer who owns the Acadamy, is a gifted designer, a wonderful teacher and a truly charming person. Doesburg is a picturesque and old (incorporated in 1223) town. 

Dutch Couture Academy

Draped Dress Forms

Class - Dutch Couture Academy

Yes, those are wine glasses on the worktables.  The late afternoon break included wine, bottled by Saskia's husband, from grapes grown in the Netherlands. It was very good.

Our last night of the tour included a boat tour of the Amsterdam canals.  It was so pretty.

Independant Pattern Makes

Independant pattern companies are everywhere, in addition to the well-known sites on the internet, I like to browse at the clothing patterns offered by the shops on Etsy. There are hundreds.  Many are same old, same old...how many ways can you draft a basic T shirt? but you can find some unique ones, and if you are willing to take a chance on the quality of the pattern drafting, instructions, etc., it can be a fun adventure.  Here are my recent makes.

1.  1920's Irish Flat cap from Etsy shop   ElseWhenMillinery  I made it as an example of using "underlining" to strengthen delicate fabrics for a presentation to a local ASG group on Linings and Underlinings .  It is made from silk jacquard tie scraps, which wiggle and ravel, until they are underlined with cotton flannel. Then they behave beautifully.  The pattern was well drafted, and the written instruction were detailed and clear. I especially like that this pattern came in different head sizes.  

2, Tallinn Blouse from Etsy Shop  Fabrico Patterns

Cotton Sateen fabric from Fabric Mart Fabrics

Tallinn Blouse

I chose the pattern because I wanted to sew a blouse without a front placket. I wasn't in the mood for buttons and buttonholes.  The pattern was well drafted.  The written instructions had lots of pictures. The blouse has a very low, open neck.  Okay for me, but something to consider for yourself. I had to make some adjustments to the shoulder area to keep it from pulling to the back as shown in the site picture above. It still does a bit.

3. Turtleneck Jumper Diana from Etsy store This Is Katchi

I was intrigued by the swirly, pieced design and up for the challenge.  I had no coordinating fabrics suitable for this top. My solution was to overdye a yard of some green rib knit with blue dye to create a slightly darker, coordinating color to the original fabric. I used the dyed fabric as the contrast in this design.  I did not use the actual turtleneck pattern. It appeared to be drafted oddly, based on my experience and figure shape.  The triangular shaped sleeve heads and short blocky torso pieces did not bode well for a garment that would fit my body. Perhaps the recommended 50% stretch fabric was supposed to cover all the wearer's bumps and lumps.

 Instead, I used BurdaStyle  turtleneck Style 121 from Sept 2010 issue and used the swirl design from the Diana pattern.  

 There are written instructions, and a YouTube video for this pattern.  The 2nd half of the video explains how to create the swirly design on the basic pattern and how to sew it together. Sewing was a challenge, as my table buddy, at the sewing retreat where I made this, can attest. But I am happy with the results.

Diana Swirl Turtleneck

4. (not from Etsy) Fitzroy Blouse from Liesl Gibson at Oliver and S. It has a subtly raised shawl collar creating a flattering high V neckline. I chose to make the softly pleated tucks on the sleeve for View A.  Fabric is a "vintage" (looked like deadstock from the 90's) wool crepe print of blue morning glories on a purple background from Gala Fabrics in Canada. This particular fabric is no longer available. Liesl patterns and instructions are always great. 

Fitzroy Blouse

Cu Metallic Jacket

 

Sewing friends, that have gone fabric shopping with me know that I am attracted to unusual, unique fabrics.  When  I say, “Look at this  great fabric”.  They graciously reply “That is interesting.  or  laugh and say, “That is so you!”  

The first time I saw the fabric below on the DenverFabric.com site,  I drooled, but didn't buy it.  A couple weeks later, when there was a site wide sale,  I gave in and  bought 1.5 yards.

This is a soft,  coarsely woven fabric  that is coated with a copper-colored metallic plastic on one side.  Because the weave is so coarse, not all the fibers are covered, making the metallic coating  look like it is weathered and  flaking.   The non glazed side of the fabric, looks like a woven black coating.

 I chose the pattern below because the fabric requirements were close to my yardage, and the solid side of the fabric could be used for the center lapel section to break up the expanse of shiny fabric.  The black strapping trim on the sleeves added additional contrast and vertical lines.

 There are lots of makes and comments on this jacket on the Burda.ru  site.  The Burda Russian site is where I go to see Burda patterns on real people. I use the Chrome browser Google Translate extension  to automatically translate all kinds of foreign language sites to English.  On the Burda.ru site  you can look at specific  patterns and any makes by selecting  "Magazines" in the top ribbon. select the year of the magazine and the issue.  Select "Look inside" eye icon  on the issue picture and scroll to the pattern model. Click on model picture to open. Scroll to bottom of page to see pictures and comments of people who have sewn the garment.

The fabric was easy to sew, on either side.  Pressing seams was a No No as it melted the copper coating and caused it to lose shine.  So, seams were topstitched if possible,  or tacked in place with hand stitching.  Hem edges were controlled or flattened a bit  by using a pick stitch sewn on the inside near the edge with no see through on the outside.   This is a technique used by couture sewist  Susan Kalje.  Threads Mag - Pick Stitch Video

  While I was sewing this jacket  I realized it has been  4 or 5 years since I had  sewn a tailored jacket with linings and lapels, collar stands, etc.   I thoroughly enjoyed the process of sewing this jacket. 

Burda 12 2019 111

It is a unique, memorable garment and would probably look really stunning on someone with auburn or brown hair. But  I like it a lot.

My current life in Blouses

 I have always worn separates; blouses, pants, sweaters and jackets.  When I was working in the corporate world,  I sewed a lot of silk blouses. This summer  I sewed three shirts/blouses , and thinking about them,  I had to smile at how they reflect the clothing needs and activities of my current lifestyle.

All three blouses are sewn from  BurdaStyle magazine patterns.  The first one is an old pattern that I traced many years ago  but never made. From the  April  2004 issue , shirt 121.  The unique feature of this blouse is that  it has detachable sleeves.

Burda 04 2004 121 blouse with detachable sleeves

 Why did I make a detachable sleeve blouse?  So, I would have a versatile garment to pack for vacation trips. I  wear it with sleeves as an over blouse.  An extra layer in cool weather,  or as protection  from the sun or biting bugs.  And without the  sleeves in hot weather.  

Any  blouse pattern or jacket can be adapted for removable sleeves using the  method of this pattern .  Add a facing to the bodice sleeve opening for a clean  finish and support. In this model it is sewn to the outside. Add a flange, in same shape as the bodice sleeve facing,  to the sleeve armhole edge. Sew buttons on the flange and matching buttonholes  around the faced bodice armhole opening. And voila a detachable sleeve. 

Detachable Sleeve

These show up occasionally in fashion and  in recent BurdaStyle magazine     Jacket 111 | 04/18

This blouse pattern, from  2004, was oversized by today’s fit styles.  I removed about 1 inch  in shoulder width and several inches in circumference  and it is still big. The fabric was a cotton plaid shirting from my stash.  It served its purpose well on a weeklong fishing vacation to Lake Murray in South Carolina.  We didn’t catch much from the dock ( probably cause Sis and I were making too much noise) but pulled in enough perch for several nights’ dinner while out on the  boat. 

Burda 4 2004 121

Sisters

Blouse  number 2 is Burda 9 2023  125  A fitted style with bust darts and vertical darts in the back. 

Burda 9 2023 shirt 125

 I recently gave a presentation to my ASG group on the “common fabrics recommended on the back of patterns”. When I was creating the sample packs containing all the fabric types, I could not find any cotton sateen in my stash.  A perfect excuse for some fabric shopping.  I found a cotton sateen printed with  pink hearts, wine bottles and glasses at FabricMartFabrics.com.  I loved the print, and it made the  perfect shirt to wear to a recent Wine and Oyster festival.  We live relatively close to Chesapeake Bay and several tidal rivers where oysters are raised.  It is fun to sample the wines from local vineyards and eat oysters in many forms;  raw, grilled, fried, or stewed.  The blouse looked perfect accessorized by my “wine bra” (what the men in my family call a wine glass holder lanyard, sigh! I am surrounded by males). 

roasted oysters with peppers and cheese

Third blouse  was  Dress 110 | Burda Style 05/23.  The dress top ends at the hip and has a flounce skirt.  I liked the fitted style of the  top, all the darts and a back yoke and  shaped back seam.  It was the same style as two RTW shirts I still wear frequently.  I added a shirttail hem and  made it as a blouse.

Burda 05 23 110 dress as shirt

The fabric is a shirting cotton  print of cocktails on a black background. also from FabricMartFabrics.  I love a black based print. So easy to wear with black trousers or jeans,  and a brightly colored sweater or accessories.  A close look at the print revealed it is holiday themed.  The drinks are accented with fir branches, candy cane stir sticks and the straws are topped with elf hats. So fun! I added a  contrast stripe fabric for the inner collar band and yoke lining and  red, flat piping at the yoke seams.  It will be perfect to wear to my sister’s retirement party that will be held at her local VFW (Veterans for Foreign Wars) Post, so um.. super casual, and end of year holiday parties with my sewing buddies or the retiree social group.

Based on the  themed print fabrics I am attracted to now, I am so afraid that when I get grandkids,  I will be the one wearing  a T shirt embroidered with "Bubba's Memaw" Guess I will wait and see.

July - TSW Instagram Challenge Sewing

 My July sewing was motivated by the  The Sewing Workshop Instagram challenge! #tswxmunuochallenge

 We were to take inspiration from the  colors and patterns in the works of artist Naomi Munuo, and using TSW  patterns, sew a garment (or a whole outfit) and post it on Instagram with our inspiration story.

I chose the painting The Fashion Project.  

I was attracted by the garment sewing related subject and the red and yellow print fabric. 

I get a visceral uplift  just  looking at red and yellow prints. It probably goes back to the emotions attached to a favorite childhood top sewn by my mother in a similar print.  And a red and yellow print quilt I made years ago. That I love so much I want to be wrapped in it in my casket.

Mood Board

My yellow and red fabric was a  cotton/lycra knit print from Nick of Time Fabric,  I loved the name printed in the selvedge of the fabric.  "Tijuana Tattoo”  It made me imagine a scenario of getting a bad tattoo in a Mexican town after a bit too much tequila.  To get back on track... The pattern for the T shirt is the E  Tee. The neckline is  trimmed in a red and white striped knit (stash).   

Tijuana Tattoo print

 I used the  Helix pant pattern. This pattern is designed for knits. So in addition to my normal fitting adjustments (low flat butt, add length, etc.)  I had to make some changes for the woven fabric. I added additional ease (circumference) in many areas and  an invisible zip in the center back seam.  As a decorative detail I added transparent silk organza  fabric strips (a nod to the transparent pattern pieces laying on the fabric in the painting) in  a center front seam of one pant leg.  The effect of the transparent fabric strips with their darker hemmed edges,  laid over adjacent strips, creates interesting stripes. 

Strips before sewing

The idea came from the Japanese sewing magazine ミセスのスタイルブックMrs Stylebook, Issue #197 2019. I have wanted to try this idea for a long time. I was reminded of it, while planning for the challenge, by the piles of silk organza in the sewing room, supplies for a class in Bojagi ( Korean Patchwork) I was taking on  Domestika 

Idea for pant inset stripes

E Tee and Helix Pant

Free Pattern Makes

 When I am having trouble deciding what to sew next, online sewing contests and challenges  can provide inspiration. It is usually the  item to be sewn and the completion date that attracts me.  Prizes, which are typically patterns and fabric, are not motivators as I have more patterns and fabrics than I will ever use in my lifetime.  

In March, it was the Instagram  #SewFrugal23 Challenge. The  objective was to sew something using a free pattern  and  fabric from your stash.  I spent many  hours scouring the internet for free PDF patterns.  I have a Google Translate extension on my internet browser that automatically translates foreign language sites to English.   I found some  Russian, Japanese, Brazilian (Portuguese) and German sites (that were almost like pattern databases) with many free patterns. The vast majority of free patterns are for  basic t shirts, tanks, gathered skirts and  baggy pants.  While I understand the appeal of these garment to beginning sewists,  I look for a  garment pattern that is  interesting or different.  

Here are the patterns I made in March.

The Patchwork Pullover   from the Bernette website.   It is a raglan sleeve top with a front yoke area that can be used for patchwork.  I made the top in a black wool knit and the patchwork in silk jacquard tie remnants that I bought as a bundle many years ago.  I love the fit of the top in the shoulder and sleeve area.  The instructions are brief. Do pay attention to the cutting and assembly of the patchwork area. All the pieces are different shapes. Not the standard right triangles as I originally  assumed.

Bernette Patchwork Pullover

Bernette Patchwork Pullover

Next item was the Carmen Blouse Amber  a free E Book (PDF pattern) from Scnittmuster Berlin    It is a  raglan style blouse with a gathered neckline that can be worn off the shoulder.  I compared my sloper to the pattern and added 1 “ to the top of the sleeves and neckline so it rode higher on my shoulders, I can pull it off my shoulders and wear it that way too.  The fabric I used  a pale green eyelet fabric from the ASG giveaway table.  I thought the finished blouse was a bit boring, so I hand sewed  flower shaped sequins and beads around the neck to give it some sparkle.  

Schnittmuster-Berlin Carmen Blouse

Carmen Blouse Amber

Garment 3 was the    frau-maerz-dress-sewing-pattern/ from Hemmers Itex, a German fabric manufacturer.  The dress pattern is modeled by and features fabric designed by,  Andrea Maerz, a well known content creator in the German-speaking world for sewing, DIY and fashion.  I follow her on Instagram.  She is near in age, though a bit younger, than me. I love her style and she makes many garments using Burda patterns. 

Frau Maerz Dress

While I like the neckline and front packet of the dress, it was too voluminous for me and my figure.  I will straighten the side seams and cut it shorter to make a tunic.  The fabric is a silk print from Fabric Mart Fabrics from the stash.

Frau Maerz Dress

Garment 4 is a denim jacket from German designer Mathias Ackerman. Is is a free download associated with  the 3/2020 issue of  Bernina Inspirations Magazine Mathias Ackermann Denim Jacket   There are no sewing instructions available either online or in the magazine.  Based on comments on the German  Bernina website,  the pattern was offered in preparation for jacket sewing class with Ackerman  at the Bernina  Creative Center, but the class was canceled because of Covid.    It has exaggerated pocket flaps,  a oval yoke  and large fold back cuffs on the sleeves.  I made it in a soft 7 oz. garment weight denim  from JoAnn Fabrics. Finding buttons for this jacket took a while and is why this post is in May. 

Mathias Ackerman Denim Jacket

Ackerman Denim Jacket  smelling the jasmine