Friday, May 1, 2020

BurdaStyle May Issue Makes

The May issue of BurdaStyle arrived last week and it had so many patterns for warm weather tops.    Sleeveless or short sleeved tops can be quick to sew.  They can often be made from large remnants of fabric left over from a previous project. (Does using up remnants count as stash reduction?)   And they are great worn on their own or under a  jacket or sweater when the air conditioning is turned up.

 I loved the first top because of its trapeze shape and asymmetrical, contrasting flounce trim.


I made it in a remnant of turquoise sanded silk from this project 70s-style-updated 2007   with a navy silk/lycra crepe flounce.  The flounce is an unhemmed bias cut band.  It takes time to  carefully ease the flounce band at the seam allowance so that it lays flat at its outer edge around the curved bottom hem or when turned back around the armhole. It took me a couple of tries to get it right.  The arm hole and neckline are finished with a combination or “all in one” facing.




 The Burdastyle instructions for this top include sewing an invisible zipper in the center back seam,  in one of the earlier construction steps.  Not having an open front or back seam  requires that the “all in one” facing be completed by sewing the shoulders seams.  This is a fiddly method and there are easier ones you can use if the center back seam is sewn together last. I always need a refresher on dealing with an All in One facing. Here are the YouTube videos that I used this time.

How to sew an all in one armhole and neckline facing  shows how to finish at shoulder seam.

Install an All in One Facing - Threads Magazine   the two easier methods that can be used if there is an open center back or front seam.

I  used the easier method because I did not put in a back zipper. I did not have the correct color or length in my stash and felt it might be a bit heavy for the fabric.  After finishing the facing, I sewed up the center back seam with a small slit at the neckline. And a loop and button so I could pull the top over my head.


Side View - really low armhole, will be adding insert

BurdaStyle 5 2020 120


Top # 2 is style 115 from the same issue. It is sleeveless with a partially gathered  front neckline. The back has a cut on extension that forms the sleeves, attaching with a raglan type seam to the front.  I used a remnant of silk print left over from this project. strong-shoulders 2009   I did make a quick muslin of this pattern because I have all kinds of high back and shoulder anomalies and was not sure what alterations would be needed.  Turned out my normal addition of  5/8" to high back length worked  fine.


This top has a slightly dressy vibe because  of the high neck.  




It is perfect for looking polished in video meetings from the waist up,  worn with comfy  "work at home"  leggings.  And if I ever get to return to the office, it will look nice worn with  more professional looking pants or skirt.

BurdaStyle  5 2020 115

I hope everyone is hanging in there.  I am looking forward to the end of self isolation and getting a haircut. My son made a comment about my hair  looking like  I should be competing in the Westminster Dog show. Woof!

The  #sewyourwardrobebasics  theme for May was Tops.  Check out Stefanie's StyleArc top and other sewists' makes at  Sea of Teal

14 comments:

  1. I traced out both those tops immediately! I did a test version of the first one, and I agree, it is crucial to ease the band in so that the outer edge has enough length to drape properly. However I couldn't figure out how wide the band should be, based on their measurements for that piece it seemed too narrow. I decided to make it as wide as it appeared in the photo so it looks like yours. I made it in a test fabric, now I'm not sure if I will make in a real one. Just cut out the second one last night.

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    1. Can't wait to see your versions! I cut the flounce at the recommended 3 inch width which includes a 5/8 inch seam allowance. So finished width on mine is 2 3/8".

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    2. does that mean the flounce is not hemmed? with the raw edge on the outer edge of it? I suppose that would work as it is bias so won't unravel but that didn't seem apparent to me in the instructions.

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    3. In the instructions it says "Ease in bias strip when basting. Leave other edge of flounce unneatened" I interpreted that to mean leave the other edge as cut. Long ago I made an Issey Miyake Vogue pattern skirt and top that used a similar bias cut, unhemmed trim. It held up surprisingly well, even when washed.

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  2. Your tops look beautiful. I always enjoy your blog posts - thanks for continuing them.

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  3. Both tops look lovely. I especially like the turquoise and navy colour combo - it looks great!

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  4. There’s a crowd! Lol! Beth and I talked about that first one and the second one I traced immediately. I also sewed 105 and it is fantastic!

    I love both tops and find the contrast drape so beautiful! I’m not sure I’ll attempt it. I’m worried about my patience level ;-)

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  5. 105 was my third favorite. Those sleeves look so cool. I may have to make it now, based on your recommendation.

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  6. Sewing up quick Summer tops is always so rewarding as they are fast and you get to use scraps if you want to. Love your new tops!

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  7. Hi Audrey, thank you so much for joining my sewing challenge.
    Your basic tops look absolutely amazing! You even manage to make two tops! That's great. The fit of both is lovely and your fabrics are beautiful. My favourite is the second one, becauese of the unusual collar. I love collars like that!
    Greetings from Germany,
    Stef

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  8. Love both tops!!! Perfect for hot weather!

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  9. That 120 top is fascinating - very interesting reading yours and Beths experience on its construction. You've done an amazing job - it looks seriously flattering on you! I'm keen to get this pattern just for the challenge haha

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  10. Te han quedado dos tops precioso, el azul muy original. BESICOS.

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