Saturday, February 13, 2016

Keeping Warm - Wool Tunic Vogue 1456

I spent 3 wonderful days at a sewing retreat a couple weeks ago.  One of my project was Vogue 1456, a Sandra Betzina tunic, semi fitted top with front princess seams, zipper closure and artful draping with hidden pockets at the side hip. There is a vest and a tunic in the pattern. The front of the vest has different draping than the tunic.  For some reason, the line drawing does not include the 4 darts in the tunic lower back hem. 



I am a big Sandra fan , and always attend her workshops or seminars when they are offered locally. I was saddened to learn that she is retiring and will not be traveling after next year.  But given her age 70’s ( which surprised me)  I totally understand. I also hope I look as good, and dress as creatively as she does,  as I get older. 

The fabric used for the tunic on the front the pattern was a wool challis, mentioned by Sandra in a video (link below) , but not listed as a recommended fabric on the pattern envelope.  I just happened to have the same wool challis print in my stash, in two color ways; gray and black and green and black. Vogue Fabrics had the blue and black version for a while, but it is sold out.

My green challis print was a bright Kelly green, a “Yikes!  Not what I expected.”  online fabric purchase (FMF) surprise.   I had never dyed wool fabric before, always concerned that the required hot dye bath and slight agitation would change the texture (felt)  of the wool fabric .  But with this fabric I  had nothing to lose,  so  I simmered the fabric in a pot of  grey blue dye.  It successfully darkened the Kelly green somewhat and did not affect the fabric feel and drape.  The pattern calls for a 24 inch separating zipper.  Because only heavy jacket zippers were available locally, I  had to ordered a  light weight separating zipper from SewTrue
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 The tunic was a fun sew, in that there is some unique seaming and the  draping is different and not something I had done before.  The directions are fine, but I did refer to the illustrations a lot.  I also practiced the pleats on the pattern paper before doing it in the fabric.  There is a 2.5 minute preview of the tunic pattern available on Sandra’s Power Sewing site.  And a link to a full length  tunic construction video which is available to watch free for a limited time. Power Sewing Tunic Vogue 1456  She emphasizes interfacing the center front opening  to support the zipper and give tips on how to place the drapes if more room is needed in the hip area. Well worth watching.

Many of the retreat attendees that wandered by to see what I was working on expressed concern on the location of the drapes in the hip area, and that the silhouette would be unflattering.  The informal consensus at the ‘what do you think” modeling session; the semi fitted top nicely offsets the flare below the bust.  Drapey fabric is key to a successful version of this garment. Unless you are slim hipped, then you have the option to use fabric with more body.  The style is a bit too “different “for my casual business work environment, but is perfect  for wearing around the house on a weekend or for a outing with  kindred "creatives". It is fricken cold outside and very windy so unfortunately the photos were taken inside.


Vogue 1456

Vogue 1456 side

 
Vogue 1456 hidden pocket

18 comments:

  1. I really like this on you and think it fits your adventuresome spirit. The color turned out lovely, too!

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  2. Your tunic looks beautiful and suits you very well. Brava!

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  3. This is an interesting look on you! Very funky, fun and different. Thanks for sharing the news about Sandra...I can understand why she would retire but will she still be sharing videos or is she totally retiring?

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    1. She sent out an email to those on her mailing list saying that she would not be travelling and teaching. That it was harder at age 75 that at 65. I am not sure about her future work with the videos and Vogue patterns

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  4. Love your blog, I love seeing the pattern and then how you have made it and what it looks like once made. It is giving me plenty of ideas to get up and get on with some sewing for myself. Thank you.

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  5. I have this pattern and your lovely interpretation makes me anxious to try this. Thanks, Karen

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  6. This is beautiful! Looks great on you. I'm also a big fan of Sandra's and I hope that she continues to design patterns for Vogue.

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  7. I too am a big fan of hers and the first time I met her and took a class with her was in the '90's in Florida. I fell in love with her creativity and her clothing styles. Some patterns like this one I do avoid but I do love how this looks on you!!! The dying of the fabric looks good to me. Great job!!

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  8. I always like your garments and I think that this one is my favourite. It seems like the pattern was disgned for you!!! You look very fashionable. woaw, lovely silhouette and perfect with those cigarette pants !

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  9. Audrey, this looks great on you.

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  10. Gorgeous. I have no doubt you will dress as well as Sandra in your future.

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  11. I think it's really pretty! and good work on the dye job!

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  12. Lovely jacket and I am very impressed with the dye job. In fact I thought you had managed to get a green version of the fabric featured on the envelope.

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  13. It is an interesting pattern without being too crazy and I think your version looks terrific on you.

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  14. Lovely top! That style is great on you!

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  15. This is just brilliant! The mandarin collar, slim fit through the shoulders and the gradual sweep through to the hem all make for a very pleasing silhouette. I love your fabric choice.

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  16. This is so cute! I, too, made this pattern...my local guild had a 'challenge' and this was the pattern we chose. We were allowed to modify, so I made a button front and V-neck...but now that I see how cute YOUR version is, I might try the mandarin/zipper combo after all!

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  17. What a great tunic! Looks fantastic on you!

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