Monday, April 6, 2015

Off-Kilter

Have you ever been fascinated by something because of its ugliness or because something seems off- kilter about it.

"He had a big head and a face so ugly it became almost fascinating."   Ayn Rand


Vogue pattern 9096 is like that for me.

Vogue 9096

I like the faced rounded shapes on the jacket. But their placement on only one side seems a bit heavy (especially on the longer jacket)  and the square bottom corner of the LHS  is jarring to me.  I like asymmetric designs, but they have to flow in some way. Is it just me or does anyone else find this design unbalanced? 

There was no sample jacket of View A on the Vogue website. Just the pattern drawing. I couldn't stand it, and on an impulse, I decided to make the short jacket. In red just like the pattern envelope picture. The fabrics were  red poly/rayon linen look and  mystery fiber  lining material from my stash,  both circa 1980. The  pattern  has two piece raglan like sleeves and the  front of the jacket extends into a standing back collar. The pattern come in sizes Y(XSmall-Small-Medium), ZZ(Large-XLarge-XXLarge)  Equivalent to Size 4 to Size 26.

I made a size M (size 12-14)  The pattern is rated easy and in general, based on pattern pieces and sewing skills needed, it is.  However it is lined to the edge. The lining is assembled separately, as though it were a second garment, placed inside the garment, wrong side to wrong side, and attached along the edges, it provides the garment with a perfectly smooth inside finish.  With this method the lining is not cut larger that the fashion garment to provide length and width fitting ease ( generally at center back, armhole, hem edge, elbow, sleeve hem, shoulder) like a tailored suit lining is.

So inaccurate sewing, seams slightly bigger in the lining construction for example, are a recipe for disaster. I consider myself an experienced sewer and these types of lining are not easy for me.   To up the chances of success, I interfaced the edges of the front pieces and the collar as these are all cut on the bias. I also added a center back pleat to the lining and cut the lining about 1/8 inch bigger that the garment pieces.

 



Top Stitching with edge stitch pressure foot





The curved side overlaps the straight front side. But the front did not hang neatly, overlapping as shown in the pattern drawing.The pattern does not call for a closure. When I tried to add snaps to keep the pieces overlapped, the fabric puckered and  pulled. I believe, in part, because one side is heavier than the other.
interfacing

lining and snaps


puckers , yuck

So for the time being I will wear the jacket  it open. I am tempted to add a curved shape to the LHS. It would satisfy my need for a repeated design element. And  I cut two of that piece, not paying attention to the "cut 1" on the pattern piece.  I do think the technique for applying the shapes on the longer coat is interesting and could be used on another  project. It also reminds me of the all the Lois Ericson patterns I have in my stash.  She used faced shapes on her art to wear garments.



17 comments:

  1. You look fabulous in it. What great shoes, too.

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  2. Hmmmm, I understand the challenges of this jacket but I would have rounded off that square edge. I also thought all those layers would be heavy but how would it work in a light fabric like silk organza? It would have enough body but not the weight?

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  3. I think it is kinda cute. The left square corner does make you look so maybe not the best if you don't want people to look at your midsection. I love the fact it was '80's fabric. I made a skirt yesterday that I think was from the 80's. Can't be sure but it has been in the stash for a long time :)

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  4. I'm often drawn to asymmetrical clothing. I like your jacket a lot.

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  5. It looks good so much better than the lone drawing. I would round the edge then I think it would look great. Love the vo,out on you ... And thise shoes!

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  6. Well that last photo is fabulous. It all works. Great shoes. With the jacket closed, not so much. Thanks for reviewing this interesting but odd design.

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  7. A very interesting jacket. Looks fabulous on you.

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  8. I think it's funny that you got so frustrated that you HAD to make it lool

    I like it. I agree that the other side should be rounded though. It's cute :-)

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  9. There is a band called "off kilter". They used to perform at EPCOT in Disney World.
    Your jacket is beautiful. I would definitely round the left corner. Love the shoes.

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  10. Very cool jacket! I can see why it intrigued you so. I like it open, actually, because it emphasizes the asymmetry.

    And I am definitely not skilled enough to line to the edge--it would be nothing but distortion city. Hats off to you!

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  11. I was drawn to the pattern because of the asymmetry. After seeing your version, I can understand making the edge of the LHS rounded instead of straight/squared. It is still a cute jacket and like how you wore it with the black pants. Cute shoes!

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  12. I love it on you-it is super flattering, and those shoes!! Oh yes.

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  13. Wow! That jacket is cute!! You look so great in it.

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  14. I love the jacket as worn in the bottom photo but not when fastened. Perhaps always wear it as a loose jacket instead?

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  15. Cute Jacket! And those shoes are amazing!!

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  16. I am just about to make view C of this jacket using a 100% wool tweed. Like you I found the squared left hand hem jarring and have therefore curved it to match the right hand side. To make view B with all those extra pieces I think is heading for a very unbalanced garment. Also I found no reference to the use of stabilisers in the instructions but have stabilised the entire jacket with a fusible interfacing to add substance and hopefully provide a more professional finish.

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