Blog predominately devoted to Sewing, with little dashes of family and work life thrown in for context and variety.
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
A Taste of Wine - Burda 8_2011 Pant 137
I seem to be spending my weekends gallivanting off to quilt shows and sewing expos. This results in lots of new ideas and purchases, but very little sewing activity. I did manage to add some color and a new pant silhouette to my fall wardrobe. The color, a wine bordering on magenta, the silhouette - slouchy tapered leg. The pattern is Burda pant 8_2011 137.
Burda pant Aug 2011 #137
The pants have a double pleat, one within another. A sewn inverted pleat covered by a larger pleat. I think I interpreted the directions correctly. They look fine and the waistband fits so I am happy.
I was concerned about looking like an ice cream cone in narrow leg pants so I did a comparison of the pattern leg width to some other pants in my closet. The pattern leg circumference is 15.5 inches. The narrowest leg pants in my closet were 14" jeans so I felt comfortable making the pattern. I did not include the side seam pockets. Most of my hip curve is between my waist and 4 inches below. Side seam pockets always gape on that short, extreme curve.
The fabric is a lightweight wool lycra gabardine from Vogue Fabrics. It is described as washable and came through that test beautifully. It has the soft drape needed for these pants. I did not line them. I looked on the netaporter web site for purple pants and styling ideas.
Diane von Furstenberg
I prefer pants like this hemmed long, covering the ankle, and worn with chunky high heel shoes. But looking at the picture, I think I need to shorten mine about an inch to keep the leg from pooling on the top of my foot. I haven't rotated my summer clothes out yet, so in this picture I am working the color blocking trend and wearing the pants with a gold sleeveless RTW knit top and chunky sandals. But the weather is cooling so I am in the process of choosing a pattern, and fabric from the stash selection below, to make a coordinating blouse.
Just wanted to mention the wonderful 2 days I had at the Chantilly, VA Sewing Expo. I took a lot of classes, mostly on fitting or sewing techniques. Even if a class is on a topic I am familiar with, it is good to have the refresher and see the demo’s again. This year Cynthia Guffey’s “Fitting your Hanger” ( shoulders and back) presentation really drove home the point that a lot of fitting issues in the bodice are because of poor shoulder and back fit. Before you start messing with bust and armholes, compare the shoulder slope of the pattern to your shoulder slope and make sure they match. Lorraine Henry’s "Crotchety Crotches" class discussed measuring and fitting armhole and leg crotches. I never thought of underarms as a crotch, but they are. She did an interesting comparison of her crotch shape to that of several pattern lines, and a pattern copied from a RTW pair of Liz Claiborne pants. It was easy to see which pattern fit her best ( Liz). I want to do the same comparison exercise myself. I bought several new pairs of specialty scissors, some independent patterns, fabric and lace. I love sewing expos and always come away invigorated and raring to go/sew.