Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Warning - Curves Ahead

I got a lot of practice sewing curved seams on my last project, which was jacket 103 from BurdaStyle Magazine Oct 2007. The magazine description: "A round bias cut insert vividly offsets the straight lines of the plaid as well as emphasizing the fitted silhouette of the short jacket. This combination of narrow lapels/reveres with an extra wide collar is also new."


I have liked this jacket since I got the issue because of the inserts and the fitted silhouette. It just took me a while to find a suitable fabric. Looking at the line drawing I was a little puzzled as to how the fitted silhouette was achieved without darts. There is only so much fitting in the bust area that can be done with curved sides seams.
To find out, I traced the patterns pieces and taped them together with removable clear tape. Because the traced pattern pieces have no seam allowances, taping the pieces together along the seams is a great way to check the accuracy of the tracing, the draft of the pattern and the silhouette. I found that some of the bust and hip shaping is done with the insert. The insert shape is not an exact duplicate of the cut out shape. The length of the curve is the same, but the shape of the curve on the insert is slightly different than the curve of the cut out. When the insert is sewn in the opening, it creates the same shape that a side bust dart and vertical bust dart would create.
Burda recommends a 3/8 inch seam allowance on all the curved seams of the jacket cutout and the insert. This is definitely a good tip, but a lot of clipping is required to get pucker free insertion.


The collar is a bit different, very wide compared to the lapel and with a collar stand only in the back neck area which makes it stand up nicely. The collar stand is yet another inset curve. And the insets have to sewn in the lining as well. Like I said, lots of curves. The wool blend fabric was purchased at Hancock’s.

49 comments:

wendy said...

wow, that's a really neat design! i love the inset & the way you worked it with the plaid :)

Tasia said...

Wow! Nicely done! Not only did you get the curved seams in but they're flat and pucker-free. Lovely jacket!

DD said...

Love your Jacket!!! I have had this Burda pattern on my list for quite some time. I gotta find the right fabric. Your fabric and fit look Great!!!

Uta said...

Gorgeous! Perfectly sewn, and I love the color of the fabric.

paco peralta said...

super....!!!

Bonnie D. said...

How beautiful! You did a great job!

Lisa said...

Great jacket. Love the color and those inserts are just awesome!

Janlynn said...

I hate to repeat but Wow! You did a fantastic job.

Karin said...

That jacket looks tricky to execute. Your version looks great. Plaid fabric really shows of the curves of the design.

Lisa said...

What a beautiful job you've made of those curves !! I am very impressed .

KID, MD said...

Beautiful!! That plaid is perfect to show off those fabulous inset!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Audrey - this is a beautiful jacket. I love the juxaposition of the plaids. However, I have a question? Do you think if you had used 5/8" seam allowances on the curves that it wouldn't have lain as flat when the curves were cut? It's not that I'm disputing Burda's instructions, but rather thinking of how this would work with a big 4 pattern? Thanks!

Again I really love the jacket and you look lovely in it!

Amanda S. said...

I LOVE it! What a great design and perfect fit! Now I've got to locate a copy of this issue.

Vicki said...

Love the curves with the plaid. Makes the jacket really interesting. Nice match too on the checks.

shams said...

GOR-GEO-US. I love what you've done with the plaid!!!

RuthieK said...

Oh its adorable! You always have such wonderful finishing to your garments!

a little sewing on the side said...

That is a wonderful jacket. Thanks for showing the pattern pieces, I was also curious as to how the shaping was accomplished with those circles. It looks so smart on you!

Ann Brodsky said...

You did an amazing job on those curved seams! Thanks for showing how the pieces shape the final jacket. Did you interface all the jacket pieces?

katherine h said...

You did a great job of those curves...a lovely effect in the plaid.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

That is so cool! I bow down to your plaid matching skills--I see the lines in the center of the inset match the lines of the larger jacket.

Gail said...

Let me join in the chorus...wow! You've done a fabulous job on a clearly difficult project. I'd like to give this pattern a go myself.

Digs said...

Love it. Just love the construction trick of hiding the bust dart in the circle seam. Beautifully fitted jacket, too.

Andrea said...

That jacket is BADDDDDD!!!! I LOVE it.

Christiana said...

What a neat design, and the fabric you used showcases the design perfectly.

Great Job
Christiana
sewamusing.blogspot.com

Bunny said...

You did an incredible job on what looks to be a very challenging pattern. Nice work!

Irene said...

Oh! What a lovely jacket. You look amazing in it.

couturearts said...

Stunning!

AllisonC said...

As usual Burda hid the best part of this pattern in their photo which always makes me suspicious that they did a bad job sewing it! Anyway yours looks perfect, I love the subtle effect created by the plaid.

Jane M said...

What a wonderful combination of fabric and pattern. You look terrific wearing it, just in time for the chilly weather.

Vicki W said...

Audrey, your jacket is beautiful!

Rebecca said...

Amazing Jacket. Well done on those curves!

Lisette M said...

Gorgeous!!

Joy said...

Wow! Great coat! Those insets are really nice.

cidell said...

What am amazing looking jacket! I suspect the impact wouldn't be quite the same in a non print material. I'm really loving this design! Great work.

Eugenia said...

Stunning jacket!!! You have made this so beautifully - I LOVE how you have used the plaid.

Sharon said...

Gorgeous jacket and I love your plaid.

KimP said...

Wow! I'm blown away. Absolutely love those curved insets on the bias!

Anonymous said...

Great fabric and pattern.

My personal taste I would've wanted to balance out the size of the upper collar and revere but that's just me.

I really love those inserts.

senaSews said...

The jacket is beautiful. Love how you placed the plaids on the inserts.

Josie said...

Wow, I love it! Great job on matching the plaid and the insets look great.

Anonymous said...

Yikes! This jacket you created is stunning. I really love everything you do. ~Valerie

j.kaori said...

This is a beautiful jacket and interesting design. You did an amazing job, as usual! I remember seeing this pattern and thinking it was really cool, but all the curved seams were intimidating. The finished product looks to be well worth the effort, though. I love your choice of plaid for this design.

Carole said...

That is such a cool jacket, and the color is great on you!

Lizzie said...

Amazing jacket, good choice of fabric too!

fabricateandmira said...

What a gorgeous jacket. Beautiful work. Love the color too.

Rosy said...

Magnificent!! This jacket has some really adorable details! and you did very well in wait for the right fabric, i love it!

paco peralta said...

Hi Audrey.- Only wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. My best wishes for another year full of happy sewing ...!!!

Linda said...

I am not sure how I missed this post earlier but glad I catching up on my reading. This is a great looking jacket. Your attention to the plaid matching and then the look of the plaids on the curve truly make this an excellent jacket. The curved seams look great! Love the colors of this fabric as well.

Merry Christmas to you and your family!

Cennetta said...

Outstanding! I can always count on learning something new and great motivation to try something new. I love the bias insertions on this jacket. I wish I had that addition of Burda magazine.