I am trying to decide on a pattern for a jacket to be made of a double faced worsted wool that is a deep purple on one side and a muted magenta on the other. I want to use both sides/colors in the jacket. I am a sucker for woven fabrics that are one color on one side and another color on the other. My justification for buying them is that it is doubly versatile; two fabrics in one! I have a piece with a light grey side and a dark grey side, a piece with forest green on one side and olive green on the other, and another with a muted orange on one side and grey on the reverse. And that is just the wools. I won’t list the knits and linens. You get the picture. Burda World of Fashion Magazines often have jacket patterns that call for two coordinating fabrics. The patterns could also be made using both sides of double faced fabric. Here are 4 possible pattern choices for jacket that I like. I printed copies of the jacket line drawings (scanned and enlarged 100%), cut them out and colored them. The colors are not exactly like my fabric, but they are in the right color family with enough contrast to illustrate the idea. I made pants using the dark color last year, and I plan to wear the jacket with the matching pants.
BWOF Jacket May-2002 No. 104
Light color on top would make it look like a cropped jacket when worn with the matching pants. And I could accent the collar and waist line seam with hand stitching in the darker color.
BWOF Jacket Feb-2004 No 104
The princess seams on the bodice and the sleeve seams are sewn so that the seam allowance is to the outside. Then the seam allowance raw edge is turned under and top stitched, resulting in contrasting bands accenting the seams. Top stitching could be done with a decorative stitch or additional trim could be inserted under the turned edge for added interest. I am concerned about how flat the seam allowances on the princess seam will be when turned under and top stitched. Part of the seam is on the bias and part on the straight of grain. They are wrinkled on the jacket in the magazine, but the fabric appears to be a poly satin, which doesn’t press as nicely as wool.
BWOF Jacket June 2007 No. 107
The magazine jacket is in the same color scheme as my fabric. The contrasting bands are actual separate bands sewn onto the facing of the jacket edge. This makes for a lot of layers along the collar roll line. The photographed jacket is turned away from the camera, but from what I can see of the collar, it is not rolling smoothly. Hmmm
BWOF Jacket May 2006, No 107
The jacket styling makes it look like a jacket over a vest with zipper closure. If I used the darker color for the bottom band and vest front, it would look like short jacket worn over matching vest and pants. I could also add embroidery or stenciled designs to the fabric used for the band and fake vest front, to add more interest.
I am having a real hard time with this decision because each jacket has a technique or style I would like to try. I am going to sleep on it for a few nights. Feel free to tell me which one you like best.
I am taking off work tomorrow to spend the day at the Sewing Expo with some friends. I am looking forward to attending classes taught by favorite instructors, seeing the independent pattern designer fashion show during the lunch break, shopping at the vendor's booths, plus a stop at G Street Fabrics on the way home. It should be a lot of fun.