|Vogue Pattern 7639|
The pattern envelope description is “Close-fitting blouse has length variation, princess seams, top stitching , boning collar, front hook/eye closing view AB long sleeves with cuff View C halter back."
I made view A which has is hip length and has long sleeves. I used a cotton chambray fabric, one of my favorite fabrics.
This pattern uses hook and eyes for the closure on the front and the sleeve cuffs. Specifically ½ inch hook and eye tape. The assembly instructions assumes you are using this tape. My attraction to patterns with unusual styling details and closures often causes projects to take extra time to complete, what with the time I spend driving around to the local sewing stores trying to find certain sewing notions, closures, button, or zipper styles. My local JoAnn’s and Hancock’s did not carry the tape. A Google search returned many widths of hook and eye tape with the most common being the wide type used for bra closures. I finally found a good picture of the type of tape used on the blouse from an Etsy seller based in China and after studying it for a while I decided to make my own.
Basically it is a stripe of woven fabric, double folded with raw edges inside. The hooks or eyes are sewn inside, with only the hook or eye sticking out beyond the tape edge. I use a poly cotton woven sew in interfacing for the tape; lightweight but with body/stiffness. Another hard to find item.
I sewed the hooks and eyes to the inside of the tape using the button setting on my machine. This is basically a zigzag in place stitch. The stitch length is set to 0 so there is no forward movement, with tacking (FIX button on my machine) to tie off the threads.
|Machine sewing Eye to tape|
Top stitching the long open edges of the tape together was easy for the eye side. I just went slowly to avoid hitting the metal legs of the eyes. There must be commercial machine that does this on the hook piece. One that can maneuver easily around the lumpy hook. I was able to sew along the edge of the tape between the hooks, stop and pull the hook under the pressure foot and resume sewing on the other side. I used a zipper foot which acted as one side of the pressure foot, but to feed the fabric evenly, I had to use a finger as the other side like a pressure foot. You guessed it, the needle tried to sew my finger to the tape. Not a deep or painful bite, but it did bleed.
My homemade tape was perfect, once it was completed and the blood stains removed.
While I was doing all this sewing I got to thinking about corsets. I don’t understand the fascination with them, but there sure are a lot of patterns, sewalongs, and blog posts on how to sew them. One site listed these reasons for buying a corset.
Why buy a Corset ? Would you like an hourglass figure? Would you like to appear slimmer? Would you like to train your waist into shape? Do you need back or posture support? Would you like a beautiful, authentic lingerie item for the bed room? Do you want to join in the latest fashion trend? If you've answered yes to any of these questions, then an authentic quality corset may be just what you're looking for!
Um Okay. Sorry but corsets don’t fit into any part of my life, real or role play. But I recalled the lacing often found on the back of corsets to cinch waist in, and thought it might be amusing to add lacing to the back of this blouse.
|HenriToulouse-Lautrec Woman in Corset|
Though the pattern calls for boning in the seams below the bust, I didn’t think that would be real comfortable when sitting, so I left it out. Actually the seaming doesn't show up real well even with the top stitching, but the fit is good.