Sunday, April 1, 2012

Color, Color, Color!

The Raincoat project is suspended. The daily temperature in VA got very warm, very fast.  I have two of the” jackets” cut out and partially sewn. But if it rains I am not wearing a raincoat. I will just use an umbrella.  Instead I switched to sewing separates for spring. My choice of projects was influenced by recently read magazines and Internet surfing, combined with thoughts of an upcoming  vacation and business conference in FLA .
Orange Inspiration

First up, a casual color blocked top in yummy orange and cream, what I think of as Ceamsicle colors.

My mom would occasionally buy these icy sweet treats when I was a child. I liked the colors more than the flavor. I am not a big ice cream fan, which is really unusual given the ice cream lovers  addicts in my gene pool.
The pattern is Burda 07-2011-121.   In the magazine, it  is shown in a dark color which makes it hard to see that the front is cut from a different fabric than the back and that the front yokes are an extension of the back.
Burda 07-2011-121
  But when the fabric used for the back and sleeves is a different color than the front, it creates a color block look.  I made a few changes to the pattern. I shortened the front slit about 3 inches, added shirttail curved hems, and short sleeves using a Burda blouse sleeve pattern from another issue. The fabrics: a thin orange woven material off the drapery remnant table which when washed shrunk to a spongy stretchy texture.  The cream fabric is a woven silk from my stash. I like the look of the color blocking.  But the loose silhouette is taking some getting used to.  If I find the time, I may take out an inch or two of ease in the hip area.



My favorite pair of summer shorts are sort of like exercise shorts, but made out of stretch denim with a very slim fit and elastic waist. The brand is Faded Glory and I have no idea where and when I bought them.

I wanted to duplicate them in other heavy weight stretch fabrics. I chose Kwik Sew pattern 3807 which is described as very close fitting pants, without side seams, elastic at waist. With fabric recommendations of medium to heavyweight stretch woven fabric with stretch on crosswise grain. Suggested Fabrics: Stretch denim, stretch twill, stretch corduroy, stretch velvet, double knit, stretch gabardine.
Kwik Sew 3807
In my stash I had some brightly colored cotton lycra fabric, purchased many years ago when lycra was first being added to denim and heavy cottons. Since bright bottoms are a current fashion fad, here was my chance to use up stash fabrics, add a style shot to my wardrobe, and make a wearable muslin for my shorts.
My hip measurement falls between the Kwik Sew medium and large sizes. I figured this pattern would have little or no wearing ease, relying on the fabric stretch for movement/wearing  ease. The finished garment hip measurement for the large size was the same as mine (so a teensy bit of negative ease is built into the pattern)  Just to be on the safe side, I cut out a large, and sewed the 5/8 seam allowances. Yes, there are 5/8 inch seam allowances on this pattern, not the typical Kwik Sew 3/8 inch. They were too big. I sewed the seam allowance for the medium size. Still too big. So I dug my RTW shorts out of storage and measured key places like the leg circumference at crotch and mid thigh, and hip and waist. I transferred these to my pants and sewed along those lines. This got me the fit I was looking for. Final size was somewhere between a size small and medium width wise, a large in the crotch length, with 1 inch chopped of the back crotch extension (no butt to fill it) and removal of all the shaping along the inner leg for the knee and calves ( no leg shape).  I really think  the amount of stretch in my fabric is what caused the final combo of sizes. The pants are more like heavy weight leggings. But they are comfortable and not too tight.

While measuring my shorts, I noticed they had a shaped side seam unlike the Kwik Sew pattern. Since I especially like the fit of the shorts, I created a pattern from them. I used the "flatten shorts out,  put pins in the seam lines and on straight of grain, put tracing paper over shorts and trace along pin bumps" method of making my pattern.   Much better sources of info on making a pattern from RTW are:
Learn Nancy's top 10 tips for copying ready to wear
 Making a rub off, copy pattern of garment
Sandra Betzina Copy Ready to Wear Video

I used fabric scraps from the leggings project for my shorts. They turned out great and are a very quick sew on the serger. Warning - winter pallor legs.  But by this time next week they will be picking up some color in FLA. Can't wait!

24 comments:

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

What great pieces! I really like the creamsicle top (add the ice cream too!) and what an adventure getting the slim pants and shorts made. But you are all set for FL next week now!

Linda said...

Love the color block top

Marie-Noƫlle said...

Thanks for timely post. I am on the point of making shorts from RTW too nad I had some issue with the crotch. I am going to check out the videos you are recommanding.

sewing spots said...

What wonderful projects! I love your take on color blocking for the top. It's very pretty and does look like a Dreamsicle:)

Lisette M said...

Great looking pieces, I love the color block top!

Chris said...

Nice!

I'm in the process of copying a favorite pair of pants. wish me luck!
:-)

katherine h said...

Great projects. Like everyone else, I especially love the creamsicle top...that colour combo is sweet!

Rachel said...

I love your colorblock top and pants. You look really great in the shorts, too. I am going to check out those link for copying RTW as that is what I really love to do.

MySummerTouch said...

Love what you did!

velosewer said...

Love the blues.

Robyn said...

Your top looks great - sometimes the fabric Burda uses makes it difficult to see the designs properly, but I think you've fulfilled the patterns potential :)

Bunny said...

Wonderful wardrobe additions! Love all that color.

gwensews said...

You are ready for summer! Love that orange/white top!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

What a cool top--great way to do the colorblocking trend with a bright and a neutral. And nice-fitting pants!

Lynneb said...

Don't you love being able to remake a favorite RTW? Thanks so much for sharing the links, too. Audrey, the top is wonderful and cool...just like those Creamsicles we used to eat! They cost 10 cents at our corner store!

Trish said...

Your leggings and shorts are perfect! Great color, too. It is so nice when you have a garment to use as your 'target' for sizing a pattern. It wouldn't have occurred to me to use the shorts when fitting the leggings! Nice move.
Enjoy Florida!

Carole said...

Great work. Love the color blocking, and the shorts fit very nicely. Have fun in Florida!

BJ said...

I like the top and the pants and the shorts. It's nice to see somebody using Kwik Sew patterns besides me.

White people are *supposed* to be pale!

j.kaori said...

I love the colorblocked top -- so cheerful! I'm not a huge fan of ice cream either, but I always thought those creamsicles were so pretty. I've been wanting to try copying RTW techniques, so you've inspired me to try it out. Have a great time in Florida!

Gail said...

You've been busy haven't you. I love the colours of your shirt and the blue blouse is just gorgeous.

theperfectnose said...

The blouse is awesome! Also loving the leggings. Jalie has patterns for one piece ones with the seam down the inside leg too. Might want to put a warning on those videos wrt the loud music that starts almost immediately after clicking the link..

Gabrielle said...

You're so good at making clothes that look like your inspiration pieces - your creamsicle top looks great. Your adventures in stretch pants sizing is interesting - and your resulting pants look like a great fit on you.

SueC56 said...

The shorts look great. Getting shorts that fit was what motivated me to get back into sewing my own clothes. FYI - I associate Faded Glory brand with Walmart.

SueC56

SuesSewingStudio.blogspot.com

HeathersSphere said...

Fun and fab looking outfits on you!