Saturday, March 30, 2019

Fruity Suit

Spring has sprung where I live. Flowers are blooming, leaf buds are bursting out, and weeds are popping up everywhere. All excuses to get outside, either to enjoy the color or work in the garden.

Speaking of color, fashion sources are featuring lots of pantsuits in bright colors.   Vogue Magazine UK calls the trend Fruity Suiting.
courtesy British Vogue
  The styles are often  longer “skim the body” jackets with either tapered/cropped, or wide leg pants.   Similar to the styles of the 1990’s. Being a sewist of mature age, I have many patterns from that time period.  I have wanted a reason to make Vogue 1395, a Claude Montana design, circa 1994 for like..  maybe 25 years. Lest you think Claude is long forgotten, e-commerce site Farfetch recently  partnered with vintage site Byronesque to re-create 11 of Montana's classics.


Vogue 1395 State of Claude Montana

When a  wool blend suiting in "bright plum" (LOL, a fruit color name)  popped up on sale at Fabric Mart, I knew I had found the perfect fabric.


The jacket is unlined, except for the sleeves, and all seams are finished with a Hong Kong finish.  What I really liked about this jacket is that it is all business in the front and back, but with side slits up to just  under the sleeves.  The bottom edge and side slits are bound with bias binding. I stressed and sweated over that bias binding.  Cut from the wool poly blend, I wasn’t sure how well the bias binding would shape to the wide bottom edge curves and the tight curves of the slit top, or if it could be pressed neatly.  It took many samples, careful work, and massive amounts of hand basting, but it turned out great.   I did shave 1/2 inch off the shoulder width as I have narrow shoulders to start with.  Other than that, no changes to the pattern. The jacket is paired with high waisted pants, to provide color continuity from a side view.  I made my matching pants using an old favorite for a high waisted style, Burda 12-2010 108, rather than the pattern pants. For my waist (mis) shape,  darts are better than pleats and a separate  waistband. And quicker to sew.


 And interesting video on high waisted pants and how they can elongate the legs was discussed on a  Facebook group I belong to. It is targeted towards men, but some of the principles apply to women. Should you wear high waisted pants

I mentioned in an earlier post that my mom now lives with us. She moved to Richmond from a small Delaware town. She is making up for lost time on the cultural activities.  This week we attended  both the play The  Book of Mormon, and the Richmond Latin Ballet’s dance tribute to the life and works of Edger Allen Poe (an interesting mashup,  but surprisingly entertaining). She and I like to dress up for these types of events, and this suit was the outfit of choice for me.








The suit jacket and pants can be worn separately with other garments.  While making the pants I noticed that one of the silks, received in a gift box from my aunt, coordinated beautifully.  It was a 4 yard piece of paisley printed chiffon with a jacquard stripe.  Perfect for the New Look 6303 blouse with bias cut, draped double layer (lots of fabric) front.



 Such an elegant, comfortable blouse to wear when made of silk.


New Look 6303

17 comments:

  1. I love the whole outfit! And congratulations on keeping the Montana pattern long enough to find the perfect fabric for it. I also bought this same fabric with the intent of making a pantsuit- and actually have most of the jacket made- just got sidelined when it came to the lining! You are definitely inspiring me to get back and finish it.

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  2. Looks fabulous. Love all three pieces. I'm sure I have just a few 90's pants suits patterns. None as interesting as yours unfortunately.

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  3. Wow, your suit is gorgeous! The top is lovely also..very impressive work.

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  4. I especially like the blouse with the pants. Beautiful work!

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  5. Stunning outcome. The colour is spectacular. You look beautiful.

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  6. Your suit turned out fabulous, I really love everything about it! I can't be sure, but I think I own that Montana suit pattern too! I will certainly look it up!

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  7. that is a fantastic outfit and the color is beautiful. What a great look and fun to use that pattern.

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  8. Great outfit wonderful use of the Montana pattern love his designs. And yay colour is back in fashion.

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  9. You do such a good job of making fashion relevant to your own wardrobe. Most inspirational.

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  10. I love all 3 pieces, the suit colour is amazing and I also still have a soft spot for Montana designs. I really should have a rummage through my old Vogue pattern collection!

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  11. Oh! Your new silk top and designer suit are on trend and you look amazing in them! I love the color purple and it is definitely your color!

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  12. Everything old is new again and even more fabulous the second time around. Love the new suit and that side detail is wow! Hope you get a lot of wear out of it!

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  13. Gorgeous outfit and lucky you for keeping those Montana patterns. I love the "slit to the pit". What a great fit helper that must be. You did a fabulous job, Audrey and it looks wonderful on you. I am glad to hear you enjoying your mom's company. Time is precious.

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  14. That color of purple is your color! Hope Mom is behaving...

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  15. Gorgeous ensemble! Great play on "fruity" suits! LOL.

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