I compared the pattern to my sloper and made changes that are typical for me in any pattern that isn’t Burda or Vogue. I lengthened the bodice, square up the shoulders, reduced width of the front, added to the waist. I sewed it up and it was …not good.
So I went to work. I made the top much more fitted, taking up extra fabric in seams over the bust and in the middle back so it is more like a bustier.
I shaped the seam where the skirt attached to the top from” slice me half just above my widest part” to have a slight downward curve. The skirt flared out from my hips like I had panieres. I shaped it to hang straight down from the hip. This dress required a incredible amount of fiddling and fitting. I have a dress form made from being wrapped in adhesive backed packing tape. The result is a Paper Mache double of my body. It is lumpy, bumpy and shaped like me. It was invaluable for the fitting of this dress.
My design image for this dress kept veering to a fitted bustier in menswear fabric worn over a dress shirt, which I have seen and admired in Vogue and Burda magazines. I kept trying to go in the direction of lightweight prints, cute little collars, and lace over solids. But the winter fabrics stacked in my sewing room were also wielding their influence. So I went with my vision. The fabrics were a very light weight gray wool/lycra for the skirt, a burgundy with navy pin stripe wool for the vest and the contrast yoke was made in a gray & burgundy stretch lace with floral motifs. The pinstripe wool came from a pair of pants I cut out over 20 years ago and never sewed up. I found the pants pieces during a recent foray in the attic.
The dress is constructed with a full lining and faced along the bustier top edge. I used a facing to give extra weight and stability to that edge. The lace yoke is made like a cropped boat neck T shirt and attached to the facing. It can be easily removed and the dress can be worn strapless or over some other type of top. There is an invisible zipper in the side seam extending from under the arm to high hip.
I really like this quote “Confidence is sexy and so is wearing clothes tastefully and with style.”
Not sure where it came from. So the two words I am submitting that describe me to inspire my look are “classic” and “confident”.
The other contestants' versions of this dress really are awesome and varied. Be sure to check them out and vote for your favorite. Fabricista Challenge