First up, a casual color blocked top in yummy orange and cream, what I think of as Ceamsicle colors.
The pattern is Burda 07-2011-121. In the magazine, it is shown in a dark color which makes it hard to see that the front is cut from a different fabric than the back and that the front yokes are an extension of the back.
My favorite pair of summer shorts are sort of like exercise shorts, but made out of stretch denim with a very slim fit and elastic waist. The brand is Faded Glory and I have no idea where and when I bought them.
I wanted to duplicate them in other heavy weight stretch fabrics. I chose Kwik Sew pattern 3807 which is described as very close fitting pants, without side seams, elastic at waist. With fabric recommendations of medium to heavyweight stretch woven fabric with stretch on crosswise grain. Suggested Fabrics: Stretch denim, stretch twill, stretch corduroy, stretch velvet, double knit, stretch gabardine.
|Kwik Sew 3807|
My hip measurement falls between the Kwik Sew medium and large sizes. I figured this pattern would have little or no wearing ease, relying on the fabric stretch for movement/wearing ease. The finished garment hip measurement for the large size was the same as mine (so a teensy bit of negative ease is built into the pattern) Just to be on the safe side, I cut out a large, and sewed the 5/8 seam allowances. Yes, there are 5/8 inch seam allowances on this pattern, not the typical Kwik Sew 3/8 inch. They were too big. I sewed the seam allowance for the medium size. Still too big. So I dug my RTW shorts out of storage and measured key places like the leg circumference at crotch and mid thigh, and hip and waist. I transferred these to my pants and sewed along those lines. This got me the fit I was looking for. Final size was somewhere between a size small and medium width wise, a large in the crotch length, with 1 inch chopped of the back crotch extension (no butt to fill it) and removal of all the shaping along the inner leg for the knee and calves ( no leg shape). I really think the amount of stretch in my fabric is what caused the final combo of sizes. The pants are more like heavy weight leggings. But they are comfortable and not too tight.
While measuring my shorts, I noticed they had a shaped side seam unlike the Kwik Sew pattern. Since I especially like the fit of the shorts, I created a pattern from them. I used the "flatten shorts out, put pins in the seam lines and on straight of grain, put tracing paper over shorts and trace along pin bumps" method of making my pattern. Much better sources of info on making a pattern from RTW are:
Learn Nancy's top 10 tips for copying ready to wear
Making a rub off, copy pattern of garment
Sandra Betzina Copy Ready to Wear Video
I used fabric scraps from the leggings project for my shorts. They turned out great and are a very quick sew on the serger. Warning - winter pallor legs. But by this time next week they will be picking up some color in FLA. Can't wait!