Sunday, May 27, 2012

Vogue 1309 Issey Miyake Tunic

One of the other sewn garments I took to NYC was an Issey Miyake tunic  made from a recently released  Vogue 1309.  I wore it to dinner on Sat night. It is described as a pullover tunic with front and back cut-in-one, no shoulder/side seams, square armholes, left side back zipper, shaped hemline, stitched hem, and unfinished and continuous bias finished edges.

I have been a big fan of Issey Miyake garments and patterns for many years.  They are intriguing in the way they are constructed and the fabrics used  are often quite unique. They are often more works of art than garments. Some are wearable, some are not.  The Vogue patterns allow me to experience the creativity of the design and  construction for myself.  Every time I successfully complete one of the patterns, I marvel at people who can think so "out of the box",  and lament my inability to do so.
I always enjoy the construction/process and  feel these types of patterns force me to use my weaker  creative sewing skills, compared to my fully developed process/ production sewing skills.

The tunic in this pattern is constructed using a huge rectangle, a small rectangle and a square.  The largest rectangle has a slit down the middle of its length which you finish with 1/4 bias binding. It forms the central section of the tunic. The smaller rectangle and square form the underarm section /gusset/ and stays for all the draping. 

Tunic starting point

Recommendations

1. Clearly mark all the dots and their associated letters for your size. My pattern was printed in blue ink rather than the normal black and the letters A-G were teeny and not located right next to the dots as I would have expected. The letter/dot combination is critical to putting this together correctly.  My fabric was busy and textured. I used little pieces of scotch tape with the letters and arrows on them to mark the dots. I peeled the tape off the fabric after sewing the seams.  All seam allowances are ¼ inch, and some are covered with bias binding so my normal marking method,  snips into the seam allowance, was not an option.
Underarm gusset and markings
2. Mark the little squares too; they are for the shoulder shaping. They are really hard to locate on a partially constructed garment, after the pieces are twisted, turned and sewed, Ask me how I know.

3. Read the direction through completely so you understand the whole construction process. Some steps make more sense when you know where you are going with subsequent steps.

I cut the three pieces out of muslin in a roughly 1/5 scale and went through the construction.  Example : Size 14 main rectangle  19.5 x70 in , My sample  4” x 14. It was like making an  Issey for Barbie.  That helped me  a bit.

 I failed to notice that the instructions start with the shaping of the back. I was doing the draping and pinning together on the dress form. I assumed the construction of the garment started with the front. There was a bit of confusion until I read ahead to the end of the instructions and realized you start with the back.  Needless to say, the shaping made a lot more sense when I put the fabric on the dress from correctly.

All seams are ¼ inch. My fabric is a sheer/solid stripe poly in variegated colors that had been permanently pressed with random crinkles. I purchased it at Jo-Ann Fabrics a couple of years ago.  I serged (3 thread) all the edges that were not finished with bias, to prevent raveling. For some of the seams, you are sewing 2 bias bound edges together or an unfinished edge and a bias bound edge. This puts the bulk of the bias trim in the seam allowance. I used a zipper foot so that I could sewon the seam line,  next to the bias bound edges.

I did put in the zipper, but it is hard to see against my fabric. I can pull the tunic over my head easily without unzipping it.
zipper
Front
The garment was too big in the bust area, but I fixed this by doing some creative tucking of my own and taking bigger seams on the side panels. There is a big droop of fabric in the back that I think is unflattering , but for someone with more of a bottom, it would be filled and look great. This is one of those garments that will fit different body types, but may be looser or tighter on one person than another due to the bias draping of the fabric and the wearer's height, and size and location of hips, bust, etc. Ann  has also made this pattern successfully in both a knit and woven and they look great. She is a very different body shape than me and she mentions some issues I did not have. I really enjoyed making this and like the way it turned out.
Vogue 1309 Issey Miyake
Side View
Back view

42 comments:

shams said...

Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous! You rock this style.

Linda said...

You did a fantastic job with this top!!! You look great in this.

Connie said...

I love it! It was so great to see this on you in person- you looked beautiful. Thanks for the detailed review- I will be certain to refer to it when I make mine.
(hoping this doesn't post twice..)

Jane M said...

Oh, love how this looks on you. Chic, comfortable and unique.

Karin said...

Wow! This is gorgeous. The irregular stripe in the fabric really highlights the design.

cidell said...

I think I've cheated myself by not picking up more of the Vogue designer patterns. I just finished an OOP Miyake jacket. This is so interesting and complicated. It looks like art (but not 'wearable art show art') on you. Great job!

kbenco said...

This looks so good on you. I bought this pattern and am very grateful for such a thorough explaination of how to put it together.

Vicki said...

This looks so great on you. The best thing is that the colours look so flattering on you. Works beautifully with our hair.

Digs said...

Cool! The fabric's a great choice for this pattern.

meli88a said...

This looks so good. I also bought this pattern in the last BMV sale and wondered what it would be like to put together. Thanks for sharing such detailed notes!

Bunny said...

Wonderful! I'm a big Miyake fan too and this one has been calling me. I think the fabric you used is spot on.

Valerie said...

I'm so glad someone has written about making this top. It looks great on you. I've got the pattern but have yet to buy the right fabric and I like the idea of making it in a knit first. Thank you!

SewBarbie said...

Gorgeous- simple and beautiful, perfect fabric as always.

Mary Nanna said...

What an elegant ensemble. I love the drape and colours and also how the cut of the pants complements the whole look. It is such a gorgeous ensemble I bet you got a lot of comments from your dinner buddies.

Summer Flies said...

Wow really fantastic on you. I love the fabric and thanks for the detailed instructions as I have also recently bought this pattern and am just waiting on it to be delivered. As it is winter here when I finish my semester I have a Issey Myake jacket I am going to make.

Sue said...

I love the fabric you chose for this top - it looks great!

Carol said...

What a brave woman you are! This looks terrific on you.

AllisonC said...

Your top is gorgeous, I think it really works with a stripe. I have this pattern too so all your tips will come in very useful, thank you for all the details.

velosewer said...

Gorgeous style and fit. I can see why you love his style.

Janine said...

Yes Issey Miyake is very clever . Your interpretation of his design is lovely . It really looks like a very expensive designer top like he intended.

liza jane said...

That is amazing. Truly a work of art! It's absolutely beautiful.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

Love it, looks great on you. I am so glad you posted all the pics so I could see what is going on with this top.

Kyle said...

you always make gorgeous garments! gorgeous!

Irene said...

Wonderful! You look amazing in this tunic. I love Miyake designs. Unfortunately I cannot wear them, or at least, I gave up after a few disasters. I do love to admire them on others.

Micksmom2 said...

Looks fantastic! I just purchased this same pattern and seeing your finished top is inspiring and helpful!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Very cool, as always. I am too afraid to attempt one of the Miyake pieces. I don't think I could think far enough outside the box!

Evie said...

This is so chic and, dare I say it, your version is lovlier than the Vogue version. Very elegant.

Gail said...

Stunning version of a stunning design concept. I bought this pattern straight away - in fact was just smitten by the design. Now I'm waiting for the Australian Spring to make it up.

a little sewing said...

beautiful, beautiful work Audrey.

You mentioned, "I always enjoy the construction/process and feel these types of patterns force me to use my weaker creative sewing skills, compared to my fully developed process/ production sewing skills."

This is exactly how you inspire me. I know your job is demanding and yet you find time to make these epic projects. I tend to focus on filling gaps in my wardrobe to the extent that I seldom get around to the more interesting projects. Thanks for sharing!! Just fabulous!

Tia Dia said...

It's wonderful! I love this!

Joy said...

The construction is so interesting! The draping is very lovely and the fabric suits the top well.

Sigrid said...

Really nothing new to say: gorgeous and looks wonderful on you.

Diana said...

Gorgeous top and looks wonderful on you. I really admire your sense of style,Audrey. I can't wait to see what you come up with next.

j.kaori said...

I love it -- looks great on you! Thank you for sharing your tips and process. I am planning to make it as well so your post is really helpful!

Lisa said...

Absolutely stunning !! I adore that fabric it is so perfect for this top.

Lynneb said...

Such interesting construction! Nicely made, and of course, it looks fabulous on you, Audrey!

Jilly Be said...

It still amazes me when I stumble upon yet another wonderful blog - new reader here, & I'll be back for more!

This top looks wonderful on you :)

Faye Lewis said...

Audrey I had a hard time choosing between the Vogue and NewLook peplum patterns too. I went with Vogue because it had fewer pattern pieces, but I actually still want to do the New Look pattern also because with the princess seaming I think it would allow me a better fit through the bust area.

Yuki said...

The top looks great on you! I like yours better than the pattern picture. Great choice of fabric.

Helen said...

Perfection. *happy sigh*

Lara said...

Hi

Thank you for showing this pattern I have had it for some time and was really pleased to see an example. I think your fabric was a good choice. Lara

Louise said...

This pattern looks great on you. Lovely colours too.