Sunday, May 6, 2012

Sewing Interruptus

It has taken me over 5 weeks to complete my latest sewing project due to a bad case of sewing interruptus - A disruption of the normal sewing process by external distractions. The distractions were good for the most part, a vacation and out of town technical conference, and some were even sewing related. A wonderfully inspiring two day workshop with Rami Kim creator of award winning Art to Wear garments,  plus I started a 8 week pattern drafting class that has significant homework. All this contributed to a slow pace on the blouse from Vogue pattern 1294.
The blouse is described as semi-fitted, and lined, with a back neck band, pleated flounce, front band with snap closing and very narrow hem. Contrast flounce and bias strip for side front/side back seams/sleeve hems. I used a mint color four ply silk from Fashionista Fabrics for the blouse itself, and a teal silk organza from G Street Fabrics for the contrast flounce and bias strip seam insertion trim.
Blouse Front
Blouse Back
The pattern is designed for light weight fabric that would require a lining. The lining finishes the neck edge. I did not line my blouse because the 4 ply silk was quite beefy, so I created my own facing for the front V neck. Bias cut raw edge strips are inserted in the princess seams as trim. I attached them to the side pieces with a three thread serger stitch which also finished the edges at the same time.
Inside Finish Details
There is an inset neck band on the blouse back and the flounce is folded and inserted into the shoulder seam of that band
Side view
The front closures are snaps and the directions recommend covering the snaps with the blouse fabric.  My fabric was heavier and this is a blouse, not a couture garment, so I chose to use clear heat resistant nylon snaps. The recommended snap placement was a bit unusual. Instead of being evenly spaced down the placket, the three top snaps are located closer together in area where the flounce is sewn to the placket. The closer spacing certainly prevents any gaps in this area. I made a mental note of this for future use. I know I tend to blindly follow the sewing "rules" or standard practices, even when a more creative or unusual solution would be more effective.
Snap Spacing
The pants are made from wool polyester blend twill purchased at Mary-Jo’s Fabrics in NC. My pants are a very similar style to the Vogue pattern but are actually made using a pattern I created by taking apart a pair of well-fitting RTW pants. I compared my pattern to the Vogue pant pattern. The waist band and leg width were exact duplicates. The difference was that my copied RTW pattern already reflected the changes I make to remove excess fabric from the butt and upper thigh area of commercial patterns. I have a piece of boucle fabric that I hope to make into a coordinating jacket and a couple pieces of blouse fabric that coordinate with the pants.

The yard is full of wonderful scents this time of year.  In the flower beds, the sweet william's, confederate jasmine and an extremely fragrant old rose, rescued from an abandoned farm house in  MD, are blooming.  In the field behind the house,  honeysuckle and some sort of scrubby white flowering tree were competing for olfactory attention.   I took the pictures there to enjoy the scents.

 Looking at the pictures, I have decided the pants need more tweaking and I should shorten the blouse by an inch or two if I plan to wear it as an over blouse. It’s bottom edge is cutting my body in half. I prefer the 1/3 top, 2/3 bottom proportions for tops worn out.

25 comments:

Karin said...

I agree, a slightly shorter blouse would look better, if worn tucked out. Your version really shows the design details that I ddn't notice on the vogue model. It's a pretty blouse with some unique twists! Seeing your lovely version makes me want one!

Vicki W said...

That's a beautiful blouse!

Rachel said...

That is a beautiful top. I love the colors you chose. I am about to have sewing interruptus, too. I am going on vacation week after next.

Vicki said...

Sounds like you have being doing some fun things! Cute blouse. I hadn't noticed the pattern before.

Bunny said...

I love how you interpreted this patterns. Lovely.

shams said...

Very nice! I like the two colors you've used to highlight the design. I wasn't sure if this top would work on me. Now that I've seen yours, I'm thinking there might be too much going on for my bust.

But you rock it!

Lori said...

Your blouse is gorgeous, a pattern I had never noticed.

Lynneb said...

I have aleays thought this was such an interesting pattern. I do love your version....nicely done, Audrey!

meli88a said...

This is a great top. I wondered what the collar was like, and your version really makes the most of the design.

Gail said...

I've just ordered this pattern so am very interested in your interpretation.

Janine said...

That is an unusual pattern - I hadn`t seen it before. Your choice of colour blocking looks lovely.

mem said...

Hello I love that blouse . The colours really suit you. Is it a current pattern ? I havent seen it in pattern books but we are a season behind.

velosewer said...

Great outfit. Do shorten the blouse.
You've really highlighted this style with the contrasting fabrics.

Dilliander said...

Lovely blouse, your sewing is always so beautifully finished.

gwensews said...

How pretty! I love that collar.

Diana said...

This is a beautiful ensemble and I love the colours. The contrast makes a great statement.

Trish said...

Your blouse is great! Interesting without being 'over-the-top'! Love it!

Mary Nanna said...

I love the colours and what an intriguing design. Tim Gunn's mantra is 'proportions, proportions, proportions' - i think his architectural training comes out with this principle. I would never have noticed anything off with it, sometimes what works well within the garment internally does not work with the garments place on the external dimensions of the body. It's a lot to balance.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I love your colors! Using the serger for the bias insertion was a genius idea--I'll have to remember that.

prttynpnk said...

You really elevated this design with your details- it's lovely.

Gabrielle said...

This is a pattern that I bought in the last Vogue pattern sales - I'm so pleased to see your version, which so nicely highlights the short features - but it looks really tricky to make this nicely!

Tia Dia said...

The details and colours of this blouse are sew beautiful! I love what you've done with it.

j.kaori said...

Beautiful blouse! I love your color choice -- it really highlights the flounces. How lucky to attend a Rami Kim workshop!

Rachel S said...

Great post, like always! I am very much impressed with your work..

Joy said...

Such a lovely blouse! The two colors give the illusion of lots of flowy layers (so it's probably good you didn't line it in addition to that).
I hope your sewing interruptus resolves itself soon!