Sunday, February 13, 2011

Vogue 1186 Issey Miyake Jacket

I purchased this Vogue Issey Miyake pattern shortly after it came out because the jacket had some interesting seaming.

You certainly can’t see the seams in the jacket on the pattern envelope. But the line drawings show them well.

I felt that if I was going to spend the time and effort to sew those curved seams, I wanted them to be visible is some way. I enlarged the line drawing and played around with my crayons. Besides the obvious color blocking options, another one I came up with was ombre coloration.

I pictured the fabric as wool where the color change was woven, not printed and there was texture or other interest in the fabric. I had no luck finding this fantasy fabric anywhere. I ordered some silk suiting and wool fabrics thinking I might ombre dye them myself, but I never got around to it. This fall I was browsing the Elliott Berman Textiles website and there was some fabric that had the ombre coloration I was looking for.
It was described as 2 Matelesse panels – made in Italy, with no info on fabric content.


It changed from a dark navy color at one end of the fabric to a bright green at the other end. I was hoping it was silk based on the price. It was on sale, but still above my $/yard comfort level. When it arrived the fabric proved to be quite interesting and unique. It was polyester, with a texture that resembled rough tree bark. The texture started out as ridges in the dark blue area and turned into cracks as they moved into the lighter bands of color. In the top green band the cracks were plentiful. The interiors of the cracks had shiny black fibers woven into them. The black fibers are actually thin flat polyester strips, very similar to the Sulky Sliver metallic thread you can buy for embroidery and embellishment. These strips float on the back of the fabric, except where they were woven into the cracks. The fabric was easy to cut and press, but no matter how thin and sharp the needles and pins I used, they often pushed the black strips through the layers to the outside of the fabric. Fortunately this did not cause a snag or pucker in the outer layer of the fabric so I finally just ignored it.


This jacket is a fair amount of work. The pattern includes the pieces for the interfacing at the sleeve hems, jacket hem, armhole and upper back, which was nice. Sewn in interfacing is recommended and that is what I used because I was unsure how well fusible interfacing would adhere to the polyester fibers. I laid out the pattern pieces so that color changed from mid tone to light on the sides of the jacket and dark to mid tone in the center of the jacket. I made the welt pockets out of a darker color than the surrounding fabric so they sort of resemble a belt as they go under the curved section. The pattern instructions are very good, describing the steps needed to complete the unique features and assembly order of this jacket. I had no trouble matching and sewing the curved seams. The only things I did not like about the instructions/pattern was the non functional sleeve vents. They were bulky when constructed as per the instructions. And instead of a button hole on the sleeve vent, the instruction have you make a line of chain stitching to look like a button hole.







I am really pleased with the finished jacket, and though the fabric is totally different than what I pictured, it did fulfill my vision. I am in the process of making a scoop neck top and wide leg pants (not from this pattern) of navy georgette to wear with the jacket. I plan to wear this outfit to a company sponsored reception and special viewing of the Pablo Picasso: Masterpieces from the Musée National Picasso, Paris exhibit at the VA Museum of Fine Arts.

Here is some picture of the jacket on me because I think it is important to show garments on real people, not just dress forms.



51 comments:

Shannon said...

Beautiful! What an interesting fabric- it really shows off all the wonderful seaming in the jacket. The jacket is gorgeous and unique and looks fabulous on you!

Carol said...

Gorgeous jacket. The colour combination is not one I would have considered, but I love the way this has turned out. It's a really flattering style,too. I love it.

Rebecca said...

Cool jacket! You did a great job with the construction!

JoanneM said...

Mag-nif-i-cent.
Well done!

Sharon said...

Stunning and your use of the fabric is inspiring.

Maricou said...

OMG absolutely fantastic,love love everything and such a stunning fabric choice.
It's a small world, yesterday I browse through Elliot Bermann Textiles for the 1st time and thought I could have bought half of what on sale. Do you recommend this site?

Gail said...

I must revisit this pattern*. I was turned off by those tragic trousers. I love your two-toned version of the jacket. *After I get through the 100 patterns I already own!

Rebecca said...

Absolutely stunning, I love your fabric choice! I have never really thought of making one of the Issey Miyake patterns(they look really intimidating), but your jacket is making me think twice about it.

Mary Nanna said...

wow -- oh wow - you must be thrilled with how this came out.

SewBarbie said...

I am speechless! I literally gasped when I saw the picture, amazing.

KID, MD said...

Gorgeous!! Your workmanship is flawless as always, but your layout really lets that unique fabric shine. Perfect for the Picasso exhibit - it's a work of art itself!

a little sewing said...

I like the way you think! What a good idea to sketch the line drawings and play around with the fabric placement. Very beautiful jacket.

LindaC said...

Wowsa. That is a stunning jacket. Thanks for sharing your thought process with us. :)

katherine h said...

You make usch interesting projects; your blog is a pleasure to read. What a glorious jacket.

Naptime Seamstress said...

That is BEAUTIFUL!!!

couturearts said...

Fantastic fabric choice! Really stunning.

Amanda S. said...

Wow! Very cool jacket! I bought this pattern for the interesting design lines on the jacket too. I was going to do a solid in a light color but now I'm going to have to rethink that. Anyway, great job and great inspiration!

shams said...

Gorgeous! I also bought this jacket for the great design lines, but it will be some work to alter. Yours is an inspiration!

mem said...

I was looking at this pattern the other day and you have done a great job with both construction and using the fabric. . It will be perfect for the Picasso exhibition . What an exciting thing to see.

Vicki said...

OMG, that is just soooo beautiful. Very clever using the fabric that way. And it really shows up the pockets (are they pockets?) and seaming.

Vicki W said...

Audrey, it's spectacular!

Sharon said...

Oh, this is simply stunning! What a great choice of fabric (and one I would never have thought of).

Anonymous said...

Stunning. Divine. Brilliant.

Irene said...

Gorgeous! Love the way you manipulated the colour gradations.
Did you happen to try a stretch needle? (not that you need to anymore, since you're done) I had fairly good (though not perfect) results on a similar weave, some time back, as I recall.

Uta said...

Your jacket is beautiful! The ombre fabric was a great idea.

AnaJan said...

Wow, the jacket is amazing! Love the shape, and love your fabric choice. Reminds me a bit of my "S" coat, that I have to photograph.

Marie-Christine said...

Wow, that is really gorgeous! Miyake would be proud of you :-).

senaSews said...

Wow, what an artful piece of work. Fantastic jacket!

Rosesred said...

That color grading is such a good idea for this jacket! I'd never think of it, and it is very, very beautiful.

melissa said...

What a fabulous jacket! The fabric was well worth the price for the Wow Factor. Great job on this!

Eugenia said...

Stunning! Unique and absolutely gorgeous, I love it.

SewingDragon said...

What a beautiful jacket! I absoluetly love the colors and how you put it together. I am so impressed. Thank you for sharing.
Michelle

Cennetta said...

Absolutely beautiful. Your use of the colors is outstanding.

Digs said...

Wonderfully creative and beautifully executed. Congrats!

Isabelle said...

What an amazing jacket! I am so impressed. Well done.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

What a stunner! I love the way you played with the colors in the fabric, and it is just so well done!

Patricia said...

That jacket is a "WOW"!

Remnant said...

Lovely. You just keep making things that are astounding in every way. Thank you for sharing them with us!

Lisette M said...

Gorgeous jacket, perfect for an art museum event!

Maria (viola33) said...

Looks classy! The fabric is gorgeous and I like the combination with emerald top.

sandysewin said...

Awesome jacket! I love your vision and your fabric choice.

Sometimes you just have to wait for the perfect fabric to come along. I think it was worth the wait!

Inkstain said...

Well, that is just fabulous. Well done, real couturier creativity and professionalism! The use of fabric is really a lesson in inspiration

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Oh my but that is one beautiful jacket! I really love your choice of fabric for this...awesome! Amazing!

j.kaori said...

Your jacket is absolutely beautiful. I love your vision of using an ombre fabric --- I never would have thought to go in that direction with the curved seams, but it totally works! The construction looks impeccable --- and how perfect to wear it to a Picasso event!

Rosy said...

Very flattering! You got a really beautiful combination with the fabric.
I really think that this jacket is a total genius!! Fabulous!!!!

Carole said...

Fabulous! It's a piece of art.

Jacquie said...

Oh my goodness, your jacket is absolutely amazing. The fabric choice is inspirational for this style and how beautifully made!

Lizzie said...

Absolutely gorgeous fabric combination, sewing and fit.

Angela said...

My jaw just dropped from seeing this jacket! It's absolutely fabulous! I can't wait to see the completed ensemble!

Linda T said...

THAT is one BEAUTIFUL jacket. I love it!

Michelle said...

Oh, my! That turned out FANTASTICALLY!! I don't think I ever would have come up with a plan like that, I am so impressed with your ability to "see" what the fabric can be. So awesome!!!