Monday, September 13, 2010

Seamingly Dartless

In the September issue of Burda, there was an article showing how to combine garments from the current and past issues. When I saw a favorite blouse #121 from the July issue combined with a great skirt #116 from the Sept. issue, and styled with a belt and shoes similar to those I have, I knew what I would sew next.
The blouse is loose fitting with extended shoulders and short sleeves gathered onto bands. This style is not typically a good one for me. The lack of shoulder seams, i.e., the extended shoulder, emphasizes my smaller, sloped shoulders in an unflattering way. But this version of the blouse featured three rows of tightly gathered strips sewn parallel to the shoulder seam, adding texture and bulk to the shoulder area. I absolutely love the blouse. I made it in inexpensive soft woven rayon. I wish I had made it in a silk. The instructions on finishing the edges of the ruffle strips was a new method for me. First the hem was folded to the wrong side of the strip on both long edges. Working from the front side, stitch along the folded edge using a narrow zig zag stitch. Turn over the strip and trim away excess hem fabric close to stitching. This seemed a little "unfinished" to me, but I tried it anyway and it seemed to work. I am curious if there will be fraying when the blouse is washed.

The skirt is a narrow pencil skirt with the shaping done through curved seams that wrap around the body. I was so impressed with the lovely shape of these curved seams and the way they shaped the fabric from the waist to the hips and over the rear. And also totally intimidated by the work that would be required if alternations were required to this pattern. I was fairly sure I knew how to draft this pattern from a standard darted skirt sloper and I was planning to do that if the muslin didn’t fit well. Fortunately it fit fine. The only tweaks required were around the waistline to make the skirt hang straight from my uneven hips and over my flat butt. Both for the muslin and for the final garment, I was very careful and precise tracing the pattern, adding seam allowances and sewing the seams. It went together beautifully. The curves are very gentle and I did not have any problem sewing them together. Burda provided a separate lining pattern piece for the front that was shaped by darts. So that the lining does not require all the seaming of the front fashion fabric pieces. And I used the lining to work backwards and confirm how the skirt was drafted.

What struck me about both these garments is that the garment shaping or dart control was in the seams. On the blouse the horizontal seam on the front actually contains a small bust dart.


The skirt is a masterpiece of darts incorporated into seams; both the front and back waistline darts as well as the side seam dart. In addition the skirt is tapered by actually drafting the vertical seams slightly inward at the hem combined with a horizontal dart at the hip line. Below are my notes and diagrams on how I would have drafted the skirt.





37 comments:

Sharon said...

A beautiful outfit and I need to have another look at that skirt. Thank you for the details.

Lizzie said...

That is a lovely outfit you have made. The skirt is really elegant on you.

Gail said...

I can't tell you how many times I've gone into the newsagents to flick through the July issue which has just arrived in Australia. I thought I there wasn't much in it to interest a mature woman-until I saw your blouse. Fabulous construction and great choice of colour.

Vicki said...

Gorgeous. I missed that top (or just dismissed it) previously. I liked the way Burda styled different outfits in the lastest mag. Showing them together gives more inspiration.

CreativeMama said...

The way you have explained is brilliant. Thanks. I will surely give both the top and skirt a try.

Darts incorporated into seams work like magic, i have tried it in skirt and it worked fine.

Karin said...

Both pieces are gorgeous and flattering on you! I have had my eye on this shirt but been worried since I am pear shaped. You certainly make it look do-able. Though I will wait till Spring since it is long sleeved and wearing it under a jacket would smoosh down the ruffles.

Stoffhamster said...

What a beatiful outfit!! Wounderful colours - you looks like very nice!
Greetings from germany in rain!
Bettina BeAu*tiful

Uta said...

Two lovely pieces, one lovely outfit. I love the colors, and how the belt picks them up! When looking at the Burda picture I thought this blouse was a bit "cutesy"; I will have to rethink that. It looks very classy on you.

Elaray said...

I've used that finish method on a burda blouse and it held up nicely. The zigzag was almost, but not quite a satin stitch.

katherine h said...

Those garments both have really lovely details. Thanks for sharing your versions. I'm thinking I need to get hold of that later Burda.

Bunny said...

Love it all! I think pegged skirts are so much more flattering to all of us. Great job!

KID, MD said...

Beautiful outfit and fascinating discussion!! Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

Shannon said...

These look fabulous! I just finished making this blouse and I'm working on the skirt- it was the photo of the two together that gave me the nudge I needed on the blouse. My blouse is black, but I really like yours. The details show up so much better in that gorgeous blue. And it looks beautiful on you.

Sue said...

That is a really lovely outfit.

meli88a said...

What a beautiful outfit. Both pieces are lovely, just lovely. I am in love with that skirt design and your version makes me appreciate the details all the more.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

These are stunning pieces! And thanks for the dart information. This was a concern of mine with the Burda dress I just made. If I EVER remake it, now I will know how to adjust the piece to include the dart! Thanks again for the info!!!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Great technical information, thank you. Love both pieces on you!

Amanda S. said...

Great outfit! LOVE the skirt, and am so happy you didn't have any fit issues.

Lisette M said...

What a great looking outfit! Thank you for explaining what it means to have the darts in the seams, I hadn't taken the time to research and now I understand.

Laura said...

You do look amazing - the fit is spot-on and the colors are great for you. Thanks for sharing.

Angela said...

Fantastic outfit! Wow, how did you draft those line drawings?

kbenco said...

You look gorgeous. I too was inspired by the Burda styling photo in the Sept issue, but was put off by the alteration difficulty.Thank you so much for your technical information, I am feeling much better equipped to take up this challenge!

judidarling said...

Your writing is so clear and complete, you teach as well as explain. Thank you for taking the time to be so thorough. Your outfit is smashing--keep em coming!

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Love both pieces and the color is fantastic on you.

gwensews said...

That's some very clever dart manipulation. Your blouse and skirt are both scrumptious.

Sharon said...

Love both pieces! I've been eyeing the skirt and would have passed on the blouse due my sloping shoulders, but now I want one too. Thanks for the dart info...I always have a hard time wrapping my brain around that.

KimP said...

Gorgeous outfit - great colors, and I really love that skirt. It's interesting, as opposed to just a boring skirt pattern. Great job!

sewabeginner said...

I love this top on you. The skirt is divine!

j.kaori said...

Wow --- that is a fantastic outfit on you! I saw the blouse in the magazine but wasn't really attracted to it, but seeing it on you has me reconsidering it. Thank you for providing your pattern analyses --- very helpful, especially the skirt. I love that skirt because the lines are so graceful. Wonderful!

Kathryn, aka fzxdoc said...

Gorgeous outfit, Audrey. You look great in it. Thank you for the drafting tutorial as well.

shelly said...

This is beautiful! As always, your style really comes through with this outfit.

Sigrid said...

Lovely outfit, the blouse really comes to life when you wear it. Wish I could wear that skirt, its lines are so beautiful.

Cennetta said...

Wow. A perfect combination.

dining table said...

Thanks for sharing the details! I like to make one for myself.

West Coast Boomer said...

You are incredible. What an amazing blog.

Anita said...

Прелесть!Поздравляю!
У меня тоже есть такой журнал, и купила его из-за юбки,и платья похожего, но к сожалению не сшила.

ladyoftheloom said...

Such a gorgeous outfit! So skillful!