I am easily distracted from sewing projects, especially when they are in the planning stage, and the pattern and fabric for another project is sitting at hand. The shirt dress mentioned in the previous post is still a project. But one night I had an hour or so before I had to shuttle a bunch of teenage boys to the movies. So I took advantage of the time to cut out the jacket from the Badgley Mischka Vogue Pattern 1099.
It is a swing jacket with some interesting sleeve and collar details. The sleeves have a horizontal pleat over a separate gathered section in the bottom half of the sleeves. This makes the sleeve quite bell like.
The shoulder seam extends into the sleeve as a dart. The sleeve fits into the armhole with some inset corners.
The collar has two separate layers. Both are rectangles cut on the bias, folded lengthwise with the cut edges eased into the curved neck seam. The outer collar is longer than the neck hole seam by an inch or so and the inner collar, cut of a contrast fabric, is actually longer than the outer collar. So while both collar pieces was easy to fit onto the neck hole seam because of the bias cut, they do not lay flat. Especially the inner collar being longer and more eased onto the seam. The end of the collar has a pleat and the under collar appears to wrap around the end and go into the upper collar. I have seen the open end collar detail on a number of designer tops and the Japanese pattern magazines.
For the fabric I used a blouse weight linen from Hancock Fabrics. It has variegated threads and a subtle metallic coating of some sort on the good side. I half expect the coating to wash off in the laundry, but it was still there when I pulled the fabric from the dryer. The fabric was easy to work with and hangs softly. Other reviewers recommended using soft rather than stiff fabric for this jacket. The lining is Bemberg rayon. The under collar is some sort of sheer green metallic mystery fabric from ‘the table" in Walmart. It looks and acts like a metallic silk organza. It can be ironed on high heat with no ill effects, other than smelling like my husband’s workshop when he is sawing fiberboard (lots of adhesives in fiberboard (MDF)) so I suspect it is a synthetic. It feels fine against my skin.
The pattern envelope picture shows the jacket worn with very wide leg pants. For my size, the pants on the pattern have a bottom leg width of 32 inches. I tried the jacket with a pair of RTW pants that have a 30 width. The silhouette is sort of a tall triangle. I also tried the jacket with a pair of slimmer cut cropped pants and high heeled sandals. I think I like the second look better than the first, but it is a more casual look, not suited for work.